The Lot and Quercy
The Lot and Quercy, in a few days
The Lot river loops almost all the way round Cahors, and everything happens along its green water between pale limestone cliffs. Saint-Cirq-Lapopie perches 80 metres above the river, the Bouziès towpath is cut into the rock, and the quieter Célé valley runs alongside.
- Day by day
- D1 Day 1 2 things
- D2 Day 2 2 things
- D3 Day 3 2 things
- D4 Day 4 2 things
- Worth sorting before you go
- Words that help
- The practical page
- Packing checklist
Day by day
Day 1
- Morning · Pont Valentré, Cahors free · about 1 hA fortified bridge of six arches and three towers, begun in 1308, UNESCO-listed on the Santiago routes, with a small stone devil added in 1879.
- Afternoon · The Bouziès towpath free · about 1 h 30Between Bouziès and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, the towpath runs for 300 metres through a gallery cut into the cliff, beside a carved frieze from 1985.
Day 2
- Morning · Saint-Cirq-Lapopie free · about 2 hA village clinging to its cliff above the Lot, voted France's favourite village in 2012, where André Breton bought a house in the early 1950s.
- Afternoon · Pech Merle cave · 2 to 3 hOne of the few caves where original prehistoric art can still be seen, including spotted horses from about 25,000 years ago and a teenager's footprint.
Day 3
- Morning · The Célé valley free · half a dayA quiet tributary valley of grey cliffs and caves, with a ruined Benedictine abbey at Marcilhac and a leaning wooden bell tower at Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie.
- Afternoon · Figeac and the Champollion Museum · about 2 hChampollion's birthplace, now a museum of the world's writing systems, beside a square paved with Joseph Kosuth's giant copy of the Rosetta Stone.
Day 4
- Morning · Castelnau-Bretenoux castle · about 1 h 30A red stone fortress above the Cère and the Dordogne, restored by the tenor Jean Mouliérat from 1896 and filled with his collection.
- Afternoon · The Cahors vineyards free · half a dayTerraces along the tight meanders downstream of Cahors, where Malbec, known here as Côt, makes up at least 70% of the deep, dark Cahors reds.
Worth sorting before you go
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Flavours & local habits
🍽️ Worth tasting
- Baguette: the daily bread, bought fresh from the boulangerie. Ask for a "tradition", made with nothing but flour, water, salt and yeast.
- Croissant and pain au chocolat: breakfast pastries, best in the morning while still warm.
- The cheese course: served after the main dish and before dessert, from Comté to Camembert.
- Steak frites: the bistro standard. Order it "saignant" for rare or "à point" for medium.
- Galettes and crêpes: savoury buckwheat pancakes from Brittany filled with ham, egg and cheese, then sweet ones for pudding.
- House wine: ordered by the carafe or the "pichet" at lunch, and often better value than a bottle.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Say "bonjour" when you walk into a shop, a bakery or a café, and "au revoir" as you leave. Skipping it comes across as rude.
- Lunch runs from about noon to 2pm and dinner starts around 7.30pm. In between, most restaurant kitchens are closed.
- Most shops close on Sunday, and many small towns shut on Monday too. Bakeries and markets open on Sunday morning.
- Do not pay for bottled water at the table: ask for "une carafe d'eau", tap water that is served free with a meal.
- Around the big Paris sights, walk past anyone with a petition or a friendship bracelet. They are there to distract you while someone else takes your wallet.
Words that help
English ↔ French
| English | French |
|---|---|
| Hello | Bonjour |
| Thank you | Merci |
| Please | S'il vous plaît |
| Yes | Oui |
| No | Non |
| Excuse me | Excusez-moi |
| Goodbye | Au revoir |
| Do you speak English? | Parlez-vous anglais ? |
| I don't understand | Je ne comprends pas |
| How much is it? | Combien ça coûte ? |
| Where are the toilets? | Où sont les toilettes ? |
| The bill, please | L'addition, s'il vous plaît |
| Help! | Au secours ! |
| Cheers! | Santé ! |
The practical page
Scan to open this guide online, always up to date.
https://offwegooo.com/en/guides/lot-quercy
Packing checklist
Have a good trip.
Guide made on offwegooo.com · Photos via Pexels · Details are indicative, check before you leave.