Saintes and the Saintonge
Saintes and the Saintonge, in a few days
Saintes has two thousand years of history on the banks of the Charente: the Arch of Germanicus, an amphitheatre for some 15,000 spectators, the crypt of Saint-Eutrope on the Way of St James and the Abbaye aux Dames, now a music centre. Around it lie the Romanesque churches of the Saintonge and the pineau vineyards.
- Day by day
- D1 Day 1 2 things
- D2 Day 2 2 things
- D3 Day 3 2 things
- D4 Day 4 2 things
- Worth sorting before you go
- Words that help
- The practical page
- Packing checklist
Day by day
Day 1
- Morning · Arch of Germanicus free · about 30 minA two-bay Roman arch from AD 18 or 19 that marked the end of the Agrippan road from Lyon, dedicated to Tiberius, Drusus and Germanicus.
- Afternoon · Saintes Archaeological Museum · about 45 minOne of the richest collections of Roman sculpture in western France: friezes, capitals and gravestones recovered from the 3rd-century walls.
Day 2
- Morning · The Charente quays free · about 45 minPlane-lined quays between the old town on the left bank and the Arch of Germanicus on the right, with a footbridge and merchants' houses.
- Afternoon · Saint-Pierre Cathedral free · about 30 minA cathedral with a huge unfinished porch tower capped by a small dome, sacked in 1568 and rebuilt from 1585, hence its plain nave.
Day 3
- Morning · Abbaye aux Dames · about 1 hFounded in 1047 by the Count of Anjou and his wife, with a white Romanesque church and a bell tower shaped like a pine cone.
- Afternoon · Basilica of Saint-Eutrope free · about 30 minConsecrated by Pope Urban II in 1096, a major stop on the Way of St James, UNESCO-listed since 1998 and visited on two levels.
Day 4
- Morning · The Roman amphitheatre · about 45 minOne of the oldest in Gaul, begun under Tiberius and built into a valley side, which helped it survive; it held some 15,000.
- Afternoon · Pilgrims' Hospital, Pons free · about 45 minAbout 20 km south of Saintes, one of the few surviving pilgrims' hospitals on the Way of St James, its porch carved with pilgrims' graffiti.
Worth sorting before you go
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Flavours & local habits
🍽️ Worth tasting
- Baguette: the daily bread, bought fresh from the boulangerie. Ask for a "tradition", made with nothing but flour, water, salt and yeast.
- Croissant and pain au chocolat: breakfast pastries, best in the morning while still warm.
- The cheese course: served after the main dish and before dessert, from Comté to Camembert.
- Steak frites: the bistro standard. Order it "saignant" for rare or "à point" for medium.
- Galettes and crêpes: savoury buckwheat pancakes from Brittany filled with ham, egg and cheese, then sweet ones for pudding.
- House wine: ordered by the carafe or the "pichet" at lunch, and often better value than a bottle.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Say "bonjour" when you walk into a shop, a bakery or a café, and "au revoir" as you leave. Skipping it comes across as rude.
- Lunch runs from about noon to 2pm and dinner starts around 7.30pm. In between, most restaurant kitchens are closed.
- Most shops close on Sunday, and many small towns shut on Monday too. Bakeries and markets open on Sunday morning.
- Do not pay for bottled water at the table: ask for "une carafe d'eau", tap water that is served free with a meal.
- Around the big Paris sights, walk past anyone with a petition or a friendship bracelet. They are there to distract you while someone else takes your wallet.
Words that help
English ↔ French
| English | French |
|---|---|
| Hello | Bonjour |
| Thank you | Merci |
| Please | S'il vous plaît |
| Yes | Oui |
| No | Non |
| Excuse me | Excusez-moi |
| Goodbye | Au revoir |
| Do you speak English? | Parlez-vous anglais ? |
| I don't understand | Je ne comprends pas |
| How much is it? | Combien ça coûte ? |
| Where are the toilets? | Où sont les toilettes ? |
| The bill, please | L'addition, s'il vous plaît |
| Help! | Au secours ! |
| Cheers! | Santé ! |
The practical page
Scan to open this guide online, always up to date.
https://offwegooo.com/en/guides/saintes
Packing checklist
Have a good trip.
Guide made on offwegooo.com · Photos via Pexels · Details are indicative, check before you leave.