Busan in 4 days

Korea's largest seafood market, on the old trawler quay, run since the war by the Jagalchi ajummas, with tanks of live octopus and abalone.

A hillside of stacked, brightly painted houses above the port, built in the 1950s by Korean War refugees and never cleared.

A 1.6-kilometre line over the sea from Songdo Beach to Songnim Park, opened in 2017, with some glass-floored cabins.

A wooded headland at the tip of Yeongdo, with cliffs over a hundred metres high, a lighthouse, and shacks serving raw octopus below.

Korea's best-known beach, a kilometre and a half of pale sand below a row of towers, packed with parasols in July and August.

An old coastal railway reopened in 2020, with a 4.8-kilometre train from Mipo to Songjeong and little four-seat sky capsules on a parallel track.

A Buddhist temple on the seaside rocks twenty kilometres north-east of the centre, one of the few in Korea not set in the mountains.

A great Jogye monastery founded in 678, with a trail behind it up Geumjeongsan (801 metres) along the walls of an eighteenth-century mountain fortress.