Phoenix
Arizona's capital spreads its 1.6 million people across the Sonoran Desert, between brown mountains bristling with saguaros that you climb at dawn before the heat sets in. Its museums tell the story of Native American peoples and the music of the world, and its neighbourhoods of brick and murals come alive on the first Friday of the month.
By PierrickLocal Guide ★8 · 14M+ views on Google MapsBy PierrickLocal Guide ★8 · 14M+ Maps views
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Phoenix · Photo Nicole Seidl / Pexels
Things to do in Phoenix in 5 days
Day 1
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Among the red buttes of Papago Park, over 50,000 desert plants of 4,800 species along five trails through saguaros, agaves and ocotillos, lit by thousands of paper lanterns in December.
💡 Come at opening time or in the late afternoon, when the low light makes the cholla spines glow and the heat drops. Book online, as prices vary by date. On the second Tuesday of the month, everyone pays what they wish. Price: from $32.95, about €28, adults; from $14.95, about €13, ages 2 to 17.
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Founded in 1929, a museum of Native American art from the Southwest, with Apache baskets, Pueblo pottery, Navajo jewellery and 437 Hopi katsina dolls, set around Spanish-style patios.
💡 The museum opens from 10am to 4pm, daily from September to May, and Tuesday to Sunday in summer. Come in February for the World Championship Hoop Dance Contest, or in March for the big Native American art fair. Price: $26, about €22, adults; $10, about €9, ages 6 to 17.
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The camel-shaped peak above Arcadia, 824 metres high, climbed at dawn by the steep Echo Canyon trail or the gentler Cholla trail for a view across the whole valley.
💡 Set off at sunrise with at least a litre of water per person: the Echo Canyon car park is full by late morning and the gate then closes. On days of extreme heat warnings, the trails are closed from 8am to 5pm. Price: free.
Day 2
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The largest art museum in the American Southwest, with over 20,000 works spanning European, Western, Latin American and contemporary art, a fashion collection and the doll's-house Thorne Miniature Rooms.
💡 The museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. On Wednesdays from 3pm to 8pm, everyone pays what they wish, and the museum stays open until 8pm on Wednesdays and Fridays. Combine it with the Heard Museum on the same day. Price: $23, about €20, adults; $13, about €11, ages 6 to 17.
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The arts district north of downtown, with murals on almost every wall, galleries and bars in 1920s bungalows, turning into a free street party on the first Friday of each month.
💡 Take the light rail to the Roosevelt/Central Avenue station, as parking is scarce on First Friday evenings. The rest of the month, come at the end of the day to photograph the murals in the golden light, then have dinner there. Price: free.
Day 3
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A 6,600-hectare city park covered in saguaros, with a winding road up to Dobbins Lookout for sunset over Phoenix and more than 160 km of trails past Hohokam petroglyphs.
💡 Drive up to Dobbins Lookout for the sunset, then stay for the city lights. To walk, set off early on the Holbert Trail, near the main entrance, to see the petroglyphs. Price: free.
Day 4
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More than 7,500 instruments from over 200 countries and territories, each showcase bringing its music to life through headphones and video, plus a gallery where you can play them yourself.
💡 Allow at least three hours, and most visitors stay longer. The galleries are quieter on weekdays after 2pm. The museum opens daily from 9am to 5pm, 30 minutes' drive from downtown. Price: $24, about €21, adults; $15, about €13, ages 13 to 19; $10, about €9, ages 4 to 12.
Day 5
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A volcanic wall rising above the desert an hour east, tied to the legend of the Lost Dutchman's gold mine, with saguaro trails and the steep Siphon Draw climb to the Flatiron.
💡 Set off before dawn for Siphon Draw and save it for the cool months, from October to April; the park's trails are open from 6am to 8pm. Carry on along the Apache Trail road to Canyon Lake and the hamlet of Tortilla Flat; the paved section is enough. Price: $10, about €9, per vehicle with one person, $20, about €17, for 2 to 4 people.
"Book" (hotels) and "via GetYourGuide" (activities) are affiliate links (Booking, GetYourGuide). Prices, times and distances are approximate.
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Good to know before you go
🍽️ Must-try food
Burgers and barbecue

brisket and ribs cooked low and slow, done differently in every state.
Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl

the classic lunch on the San Francisco waterfront.
Mexican food

tacos from a truck in Los Angeles, a Mission burrito in San Francisco.
Pancakes and weekend brunch

a national habit, generous to the point of excess.
Craft beer, and California wine from Napa and Sonoma.

Dishes to look for in the good places: Phoenix.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Tipping is not optional: add 15 to 20% in restaurants and bars.
- Prices on menus and in shops exclude sales tax, which is added at the till.
- Do not plan more than four or five hours of driving a day: the distances are larger than they look on the map.
- Never travel without health insurance. A night in hospital can cost thousands of dollars.
- In summer, do not hike down into the Grand Canyon in the heat of the day: the climb back out is where people get into trouble.
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The little details that make all the difference once you're there.
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