Where to stay in Indonesia?

Jalan Suweta, in Ubud, 600 m from the centre. A guesthouse for those who want the market and the Monkey Forest on foot, on a tight budget, with a garden for the evening.

In Penestanan, in the artists' village above Ubud. Cottages with a garden for those who want the calm of the rice fields and the centre a quarter of an hour's walk away.

On Jalan Bisma, 400 m from the centre of Ubud, in a terraced garden. A guesthouse for those who want the market and the Monkey Forest on foot, and a street quieter than the centre to come back to.

On Jalan Gootama, a small street 200 m from the centre of Ubud, in a guesthouse that houses a batik workshop. For those who want the market on foot and a Balinese home rather than a hotel.

The guesthouse runs batik classes, a good way to fill a rainy morning in Ubud.

Jalan Raya Sayan, in Penestanan, in the Ayung valley. For those who come for the valley and the river more than the town, with the centre by shuttle or taxi.

You enter via a walkway over a lotus pond set on the roof: the hotel's best-known image, before the valley opens up.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan, in Kedewatan, above the Tjampuhan river. For those who want a resort on a human scale and central Ubud on foot or by shuttle.

In the Gentong area, 2.2 km from the centre of Ubud, above the Petanu valley. For those who come for the calm of the jungle, with the market and the Monkey Forest by shuttle or taxi.

Apéritif, the restaurant on the estate, serves a tasting menu that is best booked ahead.

On Jalan Bisma, 900 m from the centre of Ubud, facing the valley and the rice fields. You sleep among the greenery while keeping the market and the Monkey Forest within walking distance, no scooter needed.

Jalan Labuan Sait, in Pecatu, near Padang Padang beach. An adults-only hotel for those who want to surf in the morning and watch the sunset from the cliff.

On Jalan Pantai Bingin, in Pecatu, on the Bingin cliff above the beach. A guesthouse for surfers and those who want sunsets from the clifftop, with Uluwatu temple a scooter ride away.

Jalan Temu Dewi, in Pecatu, on the cliff. Villas for those who want the ocean below, the architecture and the quiet, and drive to the temple for the kecak dance.

The wooden cabana perched on the cliff edge is the hotel's most photographed spot: go at sunset.

On the road from Toyapakeh to Ped, in Ketapang Kauh, with a pool. A hostel for those arriving from Bali by boat and setting off by scooter to Kelingking and Broken Beach the next day.

On the north coast of Nusa Penida, beside the road linking Toyapakeh and Ped. For small budgets who want to meet other travellers and share a driver for the island tour.

A hostel on the coast road in the north of the island, on the Ketapang Kauh side. For those who want the cheapest bed on Nusa Penida and spend their days on a scooter between the viewpoints.

Jalan Mushroom Bay, on Nusa Lembongan, on the neighbouring island. Sea-view villas for those who prefer to sleep on Lembongan and cross to Penida by boat.

Jalan Raya Senangka, in Penaga, by the sea. A resort for those who want peace and the sea, with Kelingking and the viewpoints within scooter range.

Jalan Crystal Bay, in Penima, on the Ped side, with a garden. A simple resort for those who want a green base and to explore the beaches and cliffs by scooter.

Jalan Raya Trawangan, in Tanjung, with a pool, away from the village. For those who come for the sunset and the quiet, far from the bars, and cycle into the centre.

The swing in the water in front of the hotel is the most photographed on the island: come before sunset, as there is a queue.

Jalan Raya Trawangan, in Tanjung, on the beach. For those who want a large beach hotel with a pool, the village on foot and the snorkelling boats next door.

Jalan Raya Trawangan, in Tanjung, in the south of the island, on a former plantation. Villas for those who want space and quiet, and the village by bike.