Seceda in 4 days

Five minutes from the top station, the ridge runs for about a kilometre: gentle grass on one side, a sheer drop to Val di Funes.

The hut closest to the top, ten minutes below the station, with a wooden terrace facing Sassolungo and the Sella group, away from the crowds.

A family-run hut at 2,111 metres, about 45 minutes' steady descent towards Santa Cristina, with cows around and a short menu of Ladin dishes.

Cross the plateau east via Pieralongia, Mastlé and Baita Troier to the Col Raiser station at 2,106 metres, whose gondola goes down to Santa Cristina.

Also called Regensburger Hütte, this hut at 2,040 metres is the gateway to the Puez-Odle nature park: simpler and much quieter than the ridge huts.

Two lone dolomite towers rising from the pasture at 2,285 metres, an easy hour's walk from the station and far less crowded than the ridge.

The free alternative to the lifts: about 1,250 metres of ascent over 8 to 9 km from Ortisei, with Furnes as a halfway stop.

Two stages: a gondola from Ortisei (1,236 m) to Furnes (1,730 m), then a cable car to the top station, five minutes below the ridge.