Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka, in a few days
Sigiriya, Kandy, Ella and Galle, by car and by rail: the map, what is worth booking, everything that costs nothing, and where to sleep at three budgets.
- Day by day
- 1 Sigiriya and Dambulla Days 1-2
- 2 Kandy Days 3-4
- 3 Ella and the tea country Days 5-6
- 4 Galle and the south Days 7-10
- Worth sorting before you go
- Words that help
- The practical page
- Packing checklist
Day by day
Sigiriya and Dambulla
A fifth-century palace built on top of a 200-metre rock, known as the Lion Rock and UNESCO-listed. The cave temples of Dambulla are half an hour away.
- The Lion Rock at SigiriyaHalf day · from €30Twelve hundred steps past the frescoes and between two carved paws, up to the palace on the summit. Start at dawn, before the heat.
- Elephant safari at MinneriyaHalf day · from €40From July to October, hundreds of wild elephants gather on the dry lake bed. The rest of the year, fewer but still there.
- The Golden Temple at Dambulla
- The rice paddies
- The villages
- Sunsets
Kandy
The last royal capital of the island, held until 1815. The Temple of the Tooth keeps a relic of the Buddha and draws pilgrims all year.
- The Temple of the Tooth, guided2h · from €20The relic is shown three times a day behind drums and horns. A guide explains what is happening; without one it is only a crowd.
- An evening of Kandyan dance1h · from €15An hour of drumming, masks and fire walking, in the court style the kings of Kandy kept alive.
- Kandy Lake
- The Peradeniya botanical gardens
- The market
- The viewpoints
Ella and the tea country
Misty valleys in the hills, planted with tea since the 1860s. The Nine Arch Bridge and the trains crossing it are why most people stop.
- The Kandy to Ella train7h · from €12Seven hours through tea estates and cloud, at walking pace for much of it. Book the reserved seats, then sit in the doorway anyway.
- A working tea factoryHalf day · from €15Withering, rolling, oxidising, firing, grading. Half a day that explains what the word Ceylon is doing on the packet.
- The Nine Arch Bridge
- Little Adam's Peak
- The waterfalls
- The tea fields
Galle and the south
A Dutch colonial fort from the seventeenth century, UNESCO-listed, built out on a headland. The beaches run east and west from its walls.
- Leopard safari at YalaFull day · from €55Yala holds one of the densest leopard populations anywhere. A full day, starting before first light.
- Whale watching from MirissaHalf day · from €45Blue whales pass close to shore here between December and April. Boats leave at six, and the sea is calmest then.
- Galle Fort, UNESCO-listed
- Mirissa and Unawatuna beaches
- The stilt fishermen
- Sunsets
Worth sorting before you go
A driver, and one train · A driver takes the winding roads, which are slower than any map suggests. The climb into the tea country is the one stretch worth doing by rail.
Online the moment you land, no roaming bill.
Get one · Holafly
Health, luggage, cancellation.
Cover it · Ekta
Compare the agencies before you land.
Compare · Booking
Pay at the real rate, with no exchange markup.
Open one · Revolut
A private car at a fixed price from the moment you land.
Book it · GetTransfer
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Flavours & local habits
🍽️ Worth tasting
- Rice and curry: half a dozen curries around a mound of rice, all at once.
- Hoppers: a bowl-shaped pancake of fermented rice flour, often with an egg in it.
- Kottu: roti chopped and fried on a griddle, to a rhythm you hear down the street.
- Dhal: lentils cooked slowly in coconut milk, on every table.
- Ceylon tea, drunk where it grows, in the hills of the interior.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Bare feet and covered shoulders in temples. Hats off too.
- Never turn your back on a Buddha image for a photograph. It is an offence here, and people have been deported for it.
- Agree the tuk-tuk fare before you get in, or use the PickMe app.
- Bottled water only. The monsoon hits the two coasts at opposite times of year, so check which one you are on.
Words that help
English ↔ Sinhala
| English | Sinhala |
|---|---|
| Hello | ආයුබෝවන් (ayubowan) |
| Thank you | ස්තූතියි (sthoothiyi) |
| Please | කරුණාකර (karunakara) |
| Yes | ඔව් (ow) |
| No | නැහැ (naha) |
| Excuse me | සමාවෙන්න (samavenna) |
| Goodbye | ආයුබෝවන් (ayubowan) |
| Do you speak English? | ඉංග්රීසි කතා කරනවාද? (english katha karanavada?) |
| I don't understand | මට තේරෙන්නේ නැහැ (mata therenne naha) |
| How much is it? | මේක කීයද? (meka kiyada?) |
| Where are the toilets? | වැසිකිළිය කොහෙද? (wasikiliya koheda?) |
| The bill, please | බිල ගේන්න (bila genna) |
| Help! | උදව් කරන්න! (udaw karanna!) |
| Cheers! | චියර්ස්! (cheers!) |
The practical page
Scan to open this guide online, always up to date.
https://offwegooo.com/en/guides/sri-lanka
Packing checklist
Have a good trip.
Guide made on offwegooo.com · Photos via Pexels · Details are indicative, check before you leave.