Cebu in 4 days

Founded in 1565 where Legazpi's soldiers found the Santo Niño statue given by Magellan in 1521; the coral-stone church is 18th century.

An octagonal kiosk of 1834 sheltering a tindalo wood casing around the remains of the cross planted in 1521 for Rajah Humabon's baptism.

A small triangular bastion fort begun in wood by Legazpi in 1565 and rebuilt in stone in the 18th century, two sides facing the sea.

Three hours south-west, millions of sardines school year-round just off Panagsama in shallow water, close enough to swim among with a mask.

Three to four hours down the Kanlaob river canyon at Badian, jumping, sliding and swimming, ending at the turquoise pools of Kawasan Falls.

The island's highest point at 1,013 metres, above Dalaguete: a narrow ridge surrounded by dozens of sharp, conical karst hills.

At Tan-awan, fishermen have fed whale sharks with shrimp every morning since 2011; visitors watch from boats and snorkel for a timed half hour.

Off this small island at Cebu's northern tip, thresher sharks rise from deep water most mornings to Monad Shoal to be cleaned by wrasse.