Copenhagen in 4 days

The canal of painted houses, once a sailors' harbour, where Hans Christian Andersen lived for some twenty years and old wooden ships still moor.

The self-proclaimed free town set up in 1971 in former barracks, still self-governing; the lakeside path along the ramparts passes remarkable self-built homes.

An amusement park opened in 1843 in the city centre, with an old wooden roller coaster, flower gardens and thousands of lanterns lit after dark.

Wide cycle lanes, bike bridges and flat streets; the loop from Nyhavn over Inderhavnsbroen to Christianshavn and Islands Brygge gives the best harbour views.

Two glass market halls near Nørreport with around sixty stalls, from fishmongers and coffee roasters to smørrebrød counters, good for a quick lunch.

Christian IV's Renaissance castle, with near-intact period interiors, a narwhal-tusk throne and the crown jewels in the vaulted basement treasury.

The small bronze statue inspired by Andersen's tale has watched the harbour from her rock since 1913; expect her to be smaller than you imagine.

About 35 minutes north by train, glass pavilions and a sculpture park above the Øresund, with Giacometti, Kusama and major temporary exhibitions.