Kraków in 5 days

Laid out in 1257; the hourly trumpet call from the basilica tower stops mid-note, for a watchman killed by a Tatar arrow.

Two unequal Gothic towers, a starry blue vault and the Veit Stoss altarpiece, 13 metres of carved limewood finished in 1489.

The coronation cathedral, the arcaded Renaissance castle, Flemish tapestries and the crown treasury, on a hill above the Vistula.

Seven synagogues and a Renaissance cemetery by day; candlelit cafés on Szeroka Street and bars around Plac Nowy by night.

A museum in Oskar Schindler's former enamel works on life in Kraków under Nazi occupation, from 1939 to the liquidation of the ghetto.

A 34-metre mound raised by hand in the 1820s; a spiral path climbs to views of Wawel, the Vistula and, on clear days, the Tatras.

Galleries dug since the 13th century, with salt lakes and the Chapel of St Kinga, carved entirely from salt, chandeliers included.

About 70 km away, the camp where more than 1.1 million people, most of them Jews, were murdered; guided visits cover Auschwitz I and Birkenau.