San Antonio
The most Mexican city in Texas, founded by the Spanish in 1718 around a river, is home to the Alamo, where a 13-day siege in 1836 became the state's founding myth, and four Franciscan missions listed as a World Heritage Site. Between them, a walkway follows the river under the cypresses for 24 km, lined with terraces where you eat Tex-Mex to the sound of mariachis.
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San Antonio · Photo Mariya Eskina / Pexels
Things to do in San Antonio in 3 days
Day 1
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Three blocks of Mexican market west of downtown known as El Mercado, with crafts, mariachis at weekends and Mi Tierra, a restaurant and bakery serving day and night since 1941.
💡 Come at the end of the day, when the heat eases and the terraces liven up, and finish with the pan dulce from the Mi Tierra display case. There is little haggling, but compare prices from one shop to the next. Price: free.
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The former Mission San Antonio de Valero, whose carved limestone church became the symbol of Texas after the 13-day siege of 1836, with the Long Barrack and a collection donated by Phil Collins.
💡 Entry to the church is free but requires booking a timed slot online: book the day before, or come at opening time at 9 am. The site closes at 5.30 pm. Guided tours and the audio guide are paid. Price: free with a reservation.
DatraxMada / CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)Learn moreMore
A footpath one level below the streets along the San Antonio River, laid out from 1939 among cypresses and terraces, running some 24 km from the Pearl down to the missions.
💡 Walk the downtown loop early in the morning, when the terraces are empty, then head up the Museum Reach on foot to the Pearl, about 45 minutes. The Go Rio narrated cruise lasts 35 minutes, daily from 10 am to 10 pm. Price: the walk is free, the cruise is paid, with tickets online or at the waterside kiosks.
Michael Barera / CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
Day 2
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Housed in the former Lone Star brewery on the Museum Reach, with Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities, Asian art and a Latin American art centre spanning three thousand years.
💡 Arrive along the River Walk from the Pearl, a 10-minute walk away. The museum is closed on Mondays and stays open until 7 pm on Tuesdays and Fridays. Price: $24, about €21, adults, $14, about €12, students, free up to age 12.
Nan Palmero from San Antonio, TX, USA / CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)Learn moreMore
Texas's first protected historic district, built by 19th-century German merchants along the river, with grand limestone and timber houses under pecan trees and the Steves Homestead open to visitors.
💡 Walk around it following King William Street to the River Walk, then head back up to downtown along the river. The houses are private, so stay on the pavement. Price: free.
Tony Kent / CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)Learn moreMore
The former Pearl brewery turned into a brick and steel district of chef-led restaurants, a food hall, a cookery school and the Hotel Emma, with a farmers' market on Saturdays.
💡 Come on Saturday morning for the market, then stay for lunch in the food hall; park in the district's car parks or walk in along the River Walk. In the evening, have a drink at the Hotel Emma bar, open to all. Price: free.
Bilestone / CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
Day 3
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The largest show caves in Texas, discovered in 1960 by four students, where the Discovery tour descends 54 metres underground through chambers of still-growing stalactites and stalagmites.
💡 Book your slot online, cheaper than at the ticket office, and wear good shoes: the floor is wet and the climb back up is steep. The temperature stays around 21°C all year, a respite in summer. Parking costs $10, about €9. Price: paid ticket, price depending on the tour and the date.
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Four 18th-century Franciscan missions south of the city, World Heritage listed with the Alamo, from Concepción and its original frescoes to Espada and its 1745 aqueduct still in use.
💡 Do them by bike along the Mission Reach trail, beside the river, from Concepción to Espada: about 15 km from downtown, on a bike hired in the city. By car, allow half a day, starting with San José and its introductory film. Price: free.
Chris Light / CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)"Book" (hotels) and "via GetYourGuide" (activities) are affiliate links (Booking, GetYourGuide). Prices, times and distances are approximate.
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Good to know before you go
🍽️ Must-try food
Burgers and barbecue
brisket and ribs cooked low and slow, done differently in every state.
Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl
the classic lunch on the San Francisco waterfront.
Mexican food
tacos from a truck in Los Angeles, a Mission burrito in San Francisco.
Pancakes and weekend brunch
a national habit, generous to the point of excess.
Craft beer, and California wine from Napa and Sonoma.
Dishes to look for in the good places: San Antonio.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Tipping is not optional: add 15 to 20% in restaurants and bars.
- Prices on menus and in shops exclude sales tax, which is added at the till.
- Do not plan more than four or five hours of driving a day: the distances are larger than they look on the map.
- Never travel without health insurance. A night in hospital can cost thousands of dollars.
- In summer, do not hike down into the Grand Canyon in the heat of the day: the climb back out is where people get into trouble.
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The little details that make all the difference once you're there.
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