The Sundgau
The Sundgau, in a few days
South of Mulhouse, against the Swiss border, the Sundgau is the Alsace of hills, ponds and half-timbered farms, far from the crowds of the wine route. Three ruined castles guard the Alsatian Jura, the Ill rises in a meadow at Winkel, and fried carp is eaten with your fingers.
- Day by day
- D1 Day 1 2 things
- D2 Day 2 2 things
- D3 Day 3 2 things
- D4 Day 4 2 things
- Worth sorting before you go
- Words that help
- The practical page
- Packing checklist
Day by day
Day 1
- Morning · Ferrette Castle free · about 1 hRuins on a 612-metre rocky peak above Ferrette, seat of the Counts of Ferrette, among the most powerful lords of Upper Alsace before the Habsburgs.
- Afternoon · Grotte des Nains free · about 45 minA forest path between Ferrette and Bouxwiller leads to limestone cliffs, a 25-metre gorge and a small cave that legend says housed the earth dwarves.
Day 2
- Morning · Oltingue Farm Museum · about 45 minA restored farmhouse with exposed half-timbering, showing rural Sundgau life in the 19th and early 20th centuries through trades, looms and household objects.
- Afternoon · Landskron Castle free · about 30 minA hilltop castle at Leymen by the Swiss border, older than 1297, later modernised by Vauban and used as a state prison until the Revolution.
Day 3
- Morning · The source of the Ill at Winkel free · about 30 minThe 217 km river that runs through Mulhouse and Strasbourg begins here in the meadows at around 550 metres, narrow enough to step across.
- Afternoon · Morimont Castle free · about 30 minFirst mentioned in 1183, on a 522-metre hill a kilometre from Switzerland, destroyed by the 1356 Basel earthquake and rebuilt as an artillery fortress.
Day 4
- Morning · Hirtzbach castle park free · about 45 minAn English-style park laid out in the early 19th century by Charles de Reinach around his family's listed manor, with large trees and wide lawns.
- Afternoon · Altkirch free · about 1 hThe Sundgau's capital, founded in the 12th century above the Ill, where most of the castle made way for the church in 1845.
Worth sorting before you go
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Flavours & local habits
🍽️ Worth tasting
- Baguette: the daily bread, bought fresh from the boulangerie. Ask for a "tradition", made with nothing but flour, water, salt and yeast.
- Croissant and pain au chocolat: breakfast pastries, best in the morning while still warm.
- The cheese course: served after the main dish and before dessert, from Comté to Camembert.
- Steak frites: the bistro standard. Order it "saignant" for rare or "à point" for medium.
- Galettes and crêpes: savoury buckwheat pancakes from Brittany filled with ham, egg and cheese, then sweet ones for pudding.
- House wine: ordered by the carafe or the "pichet" at lunch, and often better value than a bottle.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Say "bonjour" when you walk into a shop, a bakery or a café, and "au revoir" as you leave. Skipping it comes across as rude.
- Lunch runs from about noon to 2pm and dinner starts around 7.30pm. In between, most restaurant kitchens are closed.
- Most shops close on Sunday, and many small towns shut on Monday too. Bakeries and markets open on Sunday morning.
- Do not pay for bottled water at the table: ask for "une carafe d'eau", tap water that is served free with a meal.
- Around the big Paris sights, walk past anyone with a petition or a friendship bracelet. They are there to distract you while someone else takes your wallet.
Words that help
English ↔ French
| English | French |
|---|---|
| Hello | Bonjour |
| Thank you | Merci |
| Please | S'il vous plaît |
| Yes | Oui |
| No | Non |
| Excuse me | Excusez-moi |
| Goodbye | Au revoir |
| Do you speak English? | Parlez-vous anglais ? |
| I don't understand | Je ne comprends pas |
| How much is it? | Combien ça coûte ? |
| Where are the toilets? | Où sont les toilettes ? |
| The bill, please | L'addition, s'il vous plaît |
| Help! | Au secours ! |
| Cheers! | Santé ! |
The practical page
Scan to open this guide online, always up to date.
https://offwegooo.com/en/guides/sundgau
Packing checklist
Have a good trip.
Guide made on offwegooo.com · Photos via Pexels · Details are indicative, check before you leave.