Austin
The capital of Texas, a university town turned tech hub, proclaims itself the live music capital of the world: every night, dozens of stages play blues, country and rock between Red River and South Congress. By day, you swim in a 20°C spring in the middle of a park, queue for smoked beef brisket and, in summer, watch a million and a half bats pour out from under a bridge at sunset.
By PierrickLocal Guide ★8 · 14M+ views on Google MapsBy PierrickLocal Guide ★8 · 14M+ Maps views
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Austin · Photo Drone Task Force / Pexels
Things to do in Austin in 4 days
Day 1
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One of the country's largest university art museums, from the Renaissance to contemporary work, with Ellsworth Kelly's Austin, a white stone chapel whose coloured windows cast moving patches of light.
💡 Come on a Tuesday, when entry is free, or on a Saturday, when the museum stays open until 8 p.m. It is closed on Mondays. Step into Ellsworth Kelly's Austin in the late morning, when the sun shines through the windows. Price: $15, about €13, for adults, $8, about €7, for ages 6 to 17.
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Completed in 1888 in red granite and a few metres taller than the Capitol in Washington, with a rotunda of Texas presidents and governors, carved legislative chambers and free guided tours.
💡 Take the free 40-minute guided tour, which leaves every 15 to 30 minutes from the south foyer, Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4.15 p.m., and on Sunday from noon. Look at the floor of the rotunda, then up at the star in the dome. Price: free.
Day 2
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Lyndon B. Johnson's presidential library, covering Kennedy's assassination, civil rights, Vietnam and the space race, with a seven-eighths replica of his Oval Office and his presidential limousine.
💡 Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., last entry at 4 p.m., with free parking at the foot of the building. On Tuesdays, all tickets are half price. Avoid university football game days, when traffic is blocked. Price: $16, about €14, for adults, $6, about €5, for ages 13 to 18, free for under-12s.
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A few blocks of music venues behind Austin's live music reputation, from Stubb's open-air amphitheatre to the tiered terraces of the Mohawk, with local and touring bands every night.
💡 Check the venues' line-ups in the afternoon and buy tickets online for big names; small clubs often take entry at the door, in cash or by card. Go on foot or by ride-hailing, as parking is scarce. Price: free street, concerts $10-50, about €9-43.
Day 3
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North America's largest urban bat colony, up to a million and a half Mexican free-tailed bats, streams out from under the bridge at sunset from March to October, at its most impressive in August.
💡 Settle in 30 minutes before sunset on the lawn of the viewing area at the foot of the bridge, on the south-east side, or on the bridge itself, or book a boat or kayak trip on the lake. The emergence does not happen at a fixed time every evening, so be patient. Price: free.
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The showcase of quirky Austin, with vintage shops, cowboy boot stores, food trucks and the neon of the 1938 Austin Motel, the Continental Club's nightly music and the best view of the Capitol.
💡 Walk up the avenue in the late afternoon, from Elizabeth Street to the bridge, then carry on to the bats at the Congress Avenue bridge at sunset, 15 minutes' walk away. Come back in the evening for a concert at the Continental Club. Price: free, paid concerts.
Day 4
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A natural pool cut into a creek bed in Zilker Park, fed by springs that keep it at 20 to 21°C all year, where locals swim before work, at lunchtime or in the evening.
💡 Come early in the morning; the water feels warm in winter and icy in summer. The pool is open from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., except on Thursdays, when it closes for cleaning from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Parking is free on weekdays and paid at weekends in spring and summer. Price: $9, about €8, for a non-resident adult, $5, about €4, for ages 12 to 17.
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A limestone hill above Lake Austin, climbed by around a hundred stone steps, with a lookout over the Colorado River winding between wooded hills, a sunset tradition since the 19th century.
💡 Go up an hour before sunset on a weekday, as the small car park fills quickly at weekends. Take water in summer, as the steps are in full sun. Price: free.
"Book" (hotels) and "via GetYourGuide" (activities) are affiliate links (Booking, GetYourGuide). Prices, times and distances are approximate.
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Good to know before you go
🍽️ Must-try food
Burgers and barbecue

brisket and ribs cooked low and slow, done differently in every state.
Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl

the classic lunch on the San Francisco waterfront.
Mexican food

tacos from a truck in Los Angeles, a Mission burrito in San Francisco.
Pancakes and weekend brunch

a national habit, generous to the point of excess.
Craft beer, and California wine from Napa and Sonoma.

Dishes to look for in the good places: Austin.
⚠️ Best avoided
- Tipping is not optional: add 15 to 20% in restaurants and bars.
- Prices on menus and in shops exclude sales tax, which is added at the till.
- Do not plan more than four or five hours of driving a day: the distances are larger than they look on the map.
- Never travel without health insurance. A night in hospital can cost thousands of dollars.
- In summer, do not hike down into the Grand Canyon in the heat of the day: the climb back out is where people get into trouble.
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The little details that make all the difference once you're there.
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