A two-week loop from Negombo, next to the airport: the Cultural Triangle of Sigiriya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa, Kandy, the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya, Ella, a safari at Yala, then the south coast from Mirissa to Galle. Traffic drives on the left, slowly; you need a local permit on top of an International Driving Permit or, like most travellers, a car with a driver.
| Days | Stop | Drive |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Negombo | Start |
| Days 2 to 4 | Sigiriya | 151 km · 2h45 |
| Days 5 to 6 | Kandy | 87 km · 1h45 |
| Days 7 to 8 | Nuwara Eliya | 72 km · 1h30 |
| Days 9 to 10 | Ella | 57 km · 1h10 |
| Day 11 | Tissamaharama | 97 km · 2h |
| Days 12 to 13 | Mirissa | 127 km · 2h25 |
| Day 14 | Galle | 33 km · 35 min |
| Day 15 | Back to Negombo | 157 km · 2h05 |
Road route calculated from the stops (OpenStreetMap). Driving times assume no stops and no traffic: add time for photo breaks.
From January to March, the south coast and the mountains are dry, and the highlands enjoy their sunniest months. From April to July, the south-west monsoon soaks the south coast and the mountains; October and November are unsettled everywhere (Cyclone Ditwah in late November 2025).
🚗 151 km · 2h45 of driving from Negombo
Minor roads to Mirigama, the E04 Central Expressway to Kurunegala (toll), then the A6 via Dambulla, busy with buses and lorries.
🚗 87 km · 1h45 of driving from Sigiriya
The A9 south via Dambulla and Matale: a two-lane trunk road running through one small town after another.
🚗 72 km · 1h30 of driving from Kandy
The A5 via Gampola and Pussellawa, then the hairpin bends of the Ramboda Pass. Landslides in late 2025: take care in wet weather.
🚗 57 km · 1h10 of driving from Nuwara Eliya
The A5 via Hakgala to Welimada, then Bandarawela and the descent to Ella. Alternative: the train from Nanu Oya to Ella, with the driver following by car.
🚗 97 km · 2h of driving from Ella
The A23 drops steeply from Ella to Wellawaya, then the A2 heads south. Short detour to Buduruwagala after Wellawaya.
🚗 127 km · 2h25 of driving from Tissamaharama
The coastal A2 via Hambantota, Tangalle and Matara, slower than the Southern Expressway but right beside the ocean.
🚗 33 km · 35 min of driving from Mirissa
The A2 along the coast via Weligama, Koggala and Unawatuna.
🚗 157 km · 2h05 of driving from Galle
Keep the Cultural Triangle and the mountains: Negombo (1 night), Sigiriya (2), Kandy (1), Nuwara Eliya (2), then a long day back to the airport via Kandy. Ella, Yala and the south coast need another week.
| Car with driver, agencies (2026) | US$50 to 70 (≈ €44 to 62) a day |
|---|---|
| Car with driver, Malkey rental | 15,000 rupees (≈ €40) a day, 100 km included |
| Small car only, average (airport) | ≈ €38 a day (Kayak, Sept 2026) |
| Self-drive hire, January (most expensive month) | ≈ €50 a day |
| DMT local permit, one month | 15,000 rupees (≈ €40) |
| With a driver | Fuel, insurance, and the driver's meals and lodging are usually included. Tolls and parking depend on the quote. |
|---|---|
| Checking your driver | Tourist licence (SLTDA) and insurance. A very low price is often made up through commissions in shops. |
| Tipping | US$5 to 10 a day, paid in one go at the end of the trip. |
| Self-drive car | A small manual city car is enough: the Yala safari is done in a jeep hired locally. |
| Mileage and deposit | At Malkey: 80 km a day included, 65 rupees per extra km, deposit of 25,000 rupees. |
| Where to pick it up | At Colombo airport, next to Negombo, which also has the DMT permit counter. |
| Age and licence | At Malkey: minimum age 18 depending on the category, licence held for 3 years. |
⚠️ Your home licence, even with an International Driving Permit, is not enough: without a DMT or AA Ceylon local permit, you are driving unlicensed.
Neither your home licence nor an International Driving Permit is enough. Temporary DMT permit at the airport, or AA Ceylon recognition.
Right-hand drive. Sound your horn if you are unsure you have been seen; blind overtaking is common, especially by buses.
50 in town, 100 on expressways (60 on slip roads). Roads are narrow and congested: you will drive much slower.
The law punishes driving after drinking, with no set limit: a fine and up to 3 months in prison.
DMT: 15,000 rupees for one month, 21,000 for two months (Nov 2025 rate). AA Ceylon: US$45.
Since 2025, AA Ceylon recognition is only issued on presentation of an International Driving Permit (€7.25 in France, from ANTS).
Check the vehicle's insurance and that the driver is licensed to carry tourists.
Fast, poorly maintained public buses that rarely give way (gov.uk): keep to the left.
Pedestrians, cyclists and animals on the road; the French Foreign Ministry advises against driving at night.
The DMT permit excludes tuk-tuks. The French Foreign Ministry urges the greatest vigilance on two-wheelers.
Compulsory for the driver and front passenger. Hand-held phones banned while driving.
≈ €1.27 a litre of petrol (475 rupees, 21 Sept 2026)
Price recorded in September 2026: it changes every week, sometimes by 10 to 20 cents in a month. Check it before you go.
⛽ 781 km at 7 l per 100 km: about €70 at September 2026 prices, to share between passengers.
GlobalPetrolPrices figure, diesel slightly cheaper. Plenty of filling stations, cash and cards accepted. With a driver, fuel is usually included.
| E04 Central Expressway, Mirigama-Kurunegala | 300 rupees (≈ €0.80) |
|---|---|
| E01, E02, E03 expressways, Galle-airport | 800 rupees (≈ €2.10), rates of 17 Dec 2025 |
| Paying on expressways | On exit: cash, card or LankaQR |
| Sigiriya Rock | US$35 per adult (≈ €31), Sept 2026 rate |
| Polonnaruwa | US$30 per adult (≈ €26), Sept 2026 rate |
| Yala park | ≈ US$42 to 45 entry including taxes, jeep US$40 to 55 per half-day |
| Yala park, blocks 1 and 2 | Closed from 14 Sept to 15 Oct 2026 (drought) |
|---|---|
| A5 Kandy-Nuwara Eliya (Ramboda) | Landslides in late 2025, reopened; take care in the rainy season |
| Kandy-Nanu Oya train | Suspended since Cyclone Ditwah; reopening announced for late 2026 |
| Nanu Oya-Ella-Badulla train | Reopened on 20 June 2026, four trains a day |
| Whales at Mirissa | Season from November to April; seas too rough afterwards |
Allow two weeks for this loop of 8 stages and 14 nights from Negombo: the Cultural Triangle, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella, Yala and the south coast down to Galle, about 1,000 km including excursions. Roads are slow, especially in the mountains. With 7 days, keep Sigiriya, Kandy and the tea plantations.
Not on its own: neither your home licence nor an International Driving Permit allows you to drive (French Foreign Ministry). You need a local permit: a temporary DMT permit at the airport (15,000 rupees, about €40, for one month) or AA Ceylon recognition (US$45 online), issued on presentation of an International Driving Permit (€7.25 on the ANTS website in France).
For most travellers, yes: the French Foreign Ministry recommends it, roads are narrow and congested, and buses rarely give way. The price stays close to self-drive hire: US$50 to 70 a day through an agency, 15,000 rupees at Malkey, fuel included. Driving yourself keeps the advantage of flexible timings.
With a driver: about €550 to €860 for 14 days, fuel included, plus US$5 to 10 a day in tips. Self-drive: about €530 of hire (Kayak), €40 for the local permit, €7.25 for an International Driving Permit (French rate) and €90 of petrol for 1,000 km. Entry fees: US$35 at Sigiriya, 30 at Polonnaruwa.
January to March: the south coast is dry, the highlands are at their sunniest, and whales are off Mirissa (season from November to April). From April to July, the south-west monsoon soaks the south and the mountains. October and November are unsettled everywhere; in late November 2025, Cyclone Ditwah cut roads and railway lines.
Not all the way: the Kandy-Nanu Oya section has been cut since Cyclone Ditwah, with reopening announced for late 2026. The most scenic part, from Nanu Oya to Ella and Badulla, reopened on 20 June 2026 with four trains a day. With a driver, take the train at Nanu Oya, near Nuwara Eliya: the driver will meet you in Ella.
Driving rules, prices and closures checked in September 2026; hotels checked on OpenStreetMap and then on Booking. Rules change: read the official source before you leave, and check your own government's travel advice for the country. Stop photos: Wikimedia Commons, authors and licences under each image.
Off We Gooo road trip guide · offwegooo.com/en/road-trips/sri-lanka · by Pierrick, updated 1 October 2026
