Hvar in 4 days

A 16th-century Venetian citadel above town, where the whole population sheltered while the Ottoman fleet burned Hvar in 1571.

The largest square in Dalmatia, 4,500 m² of worn white stone between harbour and cathedral, whose bell tower gains a window per floor.

A Venetian galley repair yard with a theatre added upstairs in 1612, open to all ranks, one of Europe's oldest surviving community theatres.

Around twenty wooded islets fifteen minutes by boat from the harbour, named after the pine resin once used to seal hulls, not after hell.

A stone village at around 350 metres that emptied when lavender farming collapsed; Hvar once produced a large share of the world's lavender oil.

A pale pebble cove eight kilometres east of Hvar town, below the coast road, with a single 18th-century stone house and a few olive trees.

Hand-worked terraces on the south coast, some at 45 degrees, where plavac mali, a relative of zinfandel, makes powerful reds.

A grid of dry-stone-walled fields laid out by Greek settlers around 384 BC and farmed ever since, its ancient plots still visible.