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Arcachon Bay

Just 50 minutes from Bordeaux, the Arcachon Bay is an inland sea of 155 km² that empties and fills with the tides, between the highest dune in Europe and a peninsula of oyster villages.

🗺️The Arcachon Bay itinerary, day by dayWith a map, activities and hotels at three budgets. Free, to adapt to your dates.See the itinerary →

When to go to Arcachon Bay?

Best time: May to June and September to October

At a glance

Best timeMay to June and September to October
Budget per day€90-160 a day
CurrencyEuro (€)

Why go to Arcachon Bay?

The Arcachon Bay is a lagoon of 155 km² at high tide, a good half of which is laid bare at low tide as mudflats, channels and oyster beds, closed off by a 25 km peninsula and guarded by the highest dune in Europe. This unique geography creates landscapes found nowhere else in France: cabanes tchanquées on stilts, oyster villages with painted huts, a white sandbank in the middle of the channels, and a shoreline of villas ranging from the neo-Gothic of the Ville d'Hiver to the fishermen's houses of Cap Ferret.

Add oysters on every corner of every harbour and water at 23°C in summer, and you understand why Bordeaux spends its weekends here. It is a destination for couples and families, for cyclists looping the bay on flat paths, for food lovers working their way from one oyster shack to the next, and for nature lovers who alternate between the Le Teich reserve, the Île aux Oiseaux and the Banc d'Arguin.

The budget is higher than elsewhere on the coast, especially at Cap Ferret and in July and August, and a car becomes a burden in summer; better to come by train, hire a bike and get around by boat. May, June and September offer the best of the bay, without the crowds.

Map of Arcachon Bay: what is where?

The map shows the 6 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.

  1. Dune du Pilat
  2. Arcachon
  3. Cap Ferret
  4. Île aux Oiseaux
  5. Le Teich Bird Reserve
  6. Gujan-Mestras

How much does a trip to Arcachon Bay cost?

StylePer dayWhat it covers
Backpacker€60-90 per day camping, oysters from the producer, free dune, villages and Ville d'Hiver, a bike and one ferry trip during the week.
Comfort€130-200 per day in a boutique hotel in Arcachon, fish restaurants, a boat to the Île aux Oiseaux, Le Teich and the lighthouse, a hire bike.
Premium€300+ per day with a 5-star hotel facing the dune, a Michelin-starred restaurant, a private pinasse for a tour of the bay and a helicopter flight.

Is Arcachon Bay safe?

The bay is calm, but the channels and the ocean are not: the currents between the Banc d'Arguin and the Dune du Pilat are fierce, and the baïnes, rip-current pools on the ocean beaches of Cap Ferret and La Salie, trap swimmers every summer. Swim only in supervised areas, and in the bay well away from the channels where boats pass. On the dune, the heat of the sand at midday and the lack of shade call for water, a hat and shoes. The tide goes out fast over the mudflats, so do not venture onto them on foot. The forest fires of summer 2022 are a reminder that fires and cigarettes are banned in the pine forest, and mosquitoes come out at the back of the bay in the evening.

What to see and do in Arcachon Bay

  • Dune du Pilat
  • Arcachon's Ville d'Hiver
  • Cap Ferret Lighthouse
  • Île aux Oiseaux and its cabanes tchanquées
  • Banc d'Arguin
  • L'Herbe oyster village
  • Le Teich Bird Reserve
  • Port of Larros, Gujan-Mestras

Dune du Pilat

Dune du Pilat
Dune du Pilat · photo Sergei Gussev / Pexels

Formed since the 18th century by sand piled up by the westerly winds, the Dune du Pilat rises to around a hundred metres, stretches nearly 3 km long and 600 metres wide, and creeps eastwards by 1 to 5 metres a year, swallowing the forest. Listed as a Grand Site de France, it receives nearly two million visitors a year, who climb up by a wooden staircase installed from April to November or straight up the sand. From the top, the view takes in the Banc d'Arguin, the channels into the bay, the tip of Cap Ferret and, to the south, the Landes forest as far as the horizon. Paragliders ride the sea breeze along its crest, and sunset there is a ritual.

Arcachon

Arcachon
Arcachon · photo Czapp Árpád / Pexels

Born in 1857 of the ambitions of the Pereire brothers and the arrival of the railway, Arcachon is divided into four quarters named after the seasons: the Ville d'Été on the seafront, with the Jetée Thiers and the casino; the Ville d'Hiver on the hill, with nearly 300 Second Empire villas built for patients with lung disease; and the Ville de Printemps and Ville d'Automne around the port. The Sainte-Cécile observatory and the Saint-Paul footbridge link the curving lanes of the Ville d'Hiver, where every villa has its own name and style, Moorish, Swiss, neo-Gothic or colonial. The covered market, every morning, and the jetties where the boats leave from are the life of the town.

Cap Ferret

Cap Ferret
Cap Ferret · photo Jan van der Wolf / Pexels

The Cap Ferret peninsula separates the bay from the ocean for 25 km and lines up, on the bay side, a dozen oyster villages with painted wooden huts, L'Herbe, Le Canon, Piraillan, and on the ocean side wild sandy beaches pounded by the swell. The 1947 lighthouse, 53 metres high with 258 steps, towers over the point, where a fine sandy beach looks across the channels to the Dune du Pilat. Cap Ferret has become the chic hideaway of Bordeaux and Paris, with discreet villas under the pines, beach restaurants and prices to match. In summer the bike is the only way to get around, on paths that cross the forest from one village to the next.

Île aux Oiseaux

Île aux Oiseaux
Île aux Oiseaux · photo BiacheB / CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

In the middle of the bay, the Île aux Oiseaux covers some 300 hectares at low tide and barely a few dozen at high tide, a realm of mudflats, salt meadows, hunting huts and a few horses. Its two cabanes tchanquées, built on stilts in the water at the end of the 19th century to keep watch over the oyster beds, are the most famous image of the bay; the first was rebuilt in 1948, the second in 2007. The island belongs to the Conservatoire du Littoral and cannot be visited freely, but the boat tour passes as close as possible to the huts and the beds. Boatmen from Arcachon and Cap Ferret run the tour in about 2 hours.

Le Teich Bird Reserve

Le Teich Bird Reserve
Le Teich Bird Reserve · photo Kutay Orkun Durukan / Pexels

Created in 1972 at the back of the bay, in the Leyre delta, the Le Teich reserve protects 110 hectares of lagoons, reed beds and wet meadows where more than 300 bird species have been recorded. A 6 km trail, dotted with some twenty observation hides, lets you get close to spoonbills, grey herons, storks, avocets and stilts, with thousands of ducks and geese in winter. The site is part of the Landes de Gascogne regional nature park and, with the Banc d'Arguin national reserve, of the bay's network of wetlands. The port of Le Teich next door is the starting point for canoe trips down the Leyre.

Gujan-Mestras

Gujan-Mestras
Gujan-Mestras · photo Ertabbt / Pexels

The oyster capital of the bay, Gujan-Mestras lines up seven ports along its shore, Larros, Le Canal, La Barbotière, Gujan, Meyran, La Hume and La Mole, where some 200 businesses farm the bay's oysters, collected on limed tiles and then fattened on the beds. The port of Larros, with its Maison de l'Huître, tasting huts and flat-bottomed barges, is the liveliest, and the cycle path linking the ports makes for a flat ride right along the mudflats. The town also hosts the Oyster Festival in August. It is served by the Bordeaux-Arcachon train, which makes it an easy stop without a car.

How many days, and which itinerary?

Three days are enough for the dune, Arcachon, a boat trip and an oyster tasting at Cap Ferret. Five days let you add a bike ride round the bay, Le Teich and the ports of Gujan. A week, with beach days on the ocean and a canoe trip down the Leyre, can be spent without ever getting back in the car.

weekend (2 days)

day 1, arrive by train in Arcachon, the Ville d'Hiver in the morning, the covered market, a boat tour round the Île aux Oiseaux from the Jetée Thiers, dinner on the seafront. Day 2, bus or bike to the Dune du Pilat first thing, a shuttle boat to the Banc d'Arguin, sunset on the dune, back by train.

4-5 days

days 1 and 2 as for the weekend. Day 3, the Arcachon-Cap Ferret ferry, a hire bike, the lighthouse, the ocean beach, oysters at L'Herbe and Le Canon, back on the evening ferry. Day 4, the Le Teich reserve in the morning, the port of Larros and the Maison de l'Huître in Gujan-Mestras in the afternoon, by train. Day 5, a bike ride round the bay to Andernos and its 232-metre jetty, back by bus or boat.

one week

add to the 5-day version a day canoeing on the Leyre between Salles and Le Teich, a beach day on the ocean at La Salie or the Truc Vert beach, and an evening in Bordeaux, 50 minutes away by train, for the Place de la Bourse and a visit to the Cité du Vin.

Getting there and getting around

The Paris-Bordeaux TGV takes 2h04, then the Bordeaux-Arcachon regional train 50 minutes, with about one train an hour and stops at Biganos, Le Teich, Gujan-Mestras and La Teste: allow 3 hours door to door, without a car. Bordeaux-Mérignac airport is 45 minutes from the bay.

By car, the A63 and A660 reach Arcachon in 1 hour from Bordeaux, but traffic jams towards Cap Ferret and the dune are a daily affair in summer. Once there, the Baïa bus network serves the dune and the villages from Arcachon station, the UBA ferries link Arcachon with Cap Ferret in 30 minutes, and more than 200 km of cycle paths loop round the bay.

Hire a bike as soon as you arrive: it is the real vehicle here.

Where to stay in Arcachon Bay?

Small budget: the campsites at Pyla-sur-Mer, at the foot of the dune, and those on the peninsula, at Claouey or Le Grand-Crohot, rent pitches and mobile homes for €30 to €120 a night, with a view of the dune for the best placed. In Arcachon, a few simple hotels near the station and the market charge around €80-100 for a double, and Gujan-Mestras or Biganos offer cheaper addresses on the railway line.

Comfort: Arcachon has most of the boutique hotels, in the Ville d'Hiver or on the seafront, at €130 to €220 a night in summer. Cap Ferret offers whitewashed-wood addresses near the lighthouse or in the oyster villages, in high demand and rarely under €180 in season. Andernos, Arès and Lanton, at the back of the bay, are more affordable and well connected by bike.

Our pick: a room facing the Dune du Pilat at Pyla-sur-Mer, where you have breakfast looking out at the Banc d'Arguin and the dune turns pink at sunset. Or a renovated fisherman's hut in one of Cap Ferret's oyster villages, at L'Herbe or Le Canon, with the neighbour's oysters for dinner.

What to eat in Arcachon Bay?

The Arcachon-Cap Ferret oyster is the star: raised for three or four years in the bay, it is eaten in the oyster farmers' huts, at wooden tables facing the beds, with pâté, prawns and a glass of white, for €10 to €15 for six and €15 to €25 a dozen depending on size. Regulations forbid the huts from serving hot dishes, hence these cold platters that have become a ritual.

All around, restaurants serve sole, line-caught sea bass and cuttlefish from the bay, clams and mussels, and Arcachon's pâtisseries sell dunes blanches, cream-filled choux buns rolled in sugar. Entre-Deux-Mers wines and Graves whites go with everything, and the Gujan-Mestras Oyster Festival in August ties it all together.

The Arcachon covered market, every morning, and the Andernos market on Friday are the best. Allow €30 to €50 for a full menu in a restaurant, more at Cap Ferret.

Entry requirements

Schengen area: an ID card or passport for EU citizens, 90 days visa-free for UK, US, Canadian and Australian passports.

Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.

Frequently asked questions about Arcachon Bay

When is the best time to visit the Arcachon Bay?

May, June and September offer a sunny bay, water that is already pleasant and roads free of traffic jams. July and August are superb but saturated, with prices doubling at Cap Ferret. October stays mild, and winter, full of light, lets you see the dune and the villages with nobody around.

How do you get to the Dune du Pilat without a car?

From Arcachon station, the Baïa bus reaches the dune in about 30 minutes, with extra services in summer. By bike, a 10 km cycle path links Arcachon to the dune via Le Moulleau and Pyla-sur-Mer. The UBA ferries also link the dune with the Banc d'Arguin and Le Moulleau in season.

How much do oysters cost in the Cap Ferret huts?

Allow €10 to €15 for six oysters with a glass of white, €15 to €25 a dozen depending on size, served with pâté, prawns and bread. The huts are not allowed to serve hot dishes; they offer only cold seafood and drinks.

Can you visit the cabanes tchanquées?

No, the two huts are public property and cannot be visited, but the boats run by the Arcachon and Cap Ferret boatmen pass as close as possible, and the tour round the Île aux Oiseaux costs about €23 to €25 for 2 hours. At low tide, some pinasses drop you off on the nearby sandbanks.

How many days should I spend on the Arcachon Bay?

Three days for the dune, Arcachon, a boat trip and Cap Ferret, five to add Le Teich, Gujan-Mestras and a bike ride round the bay, a week to add the ocean beaches and a canoe trip down the Leyre. Many people spend a long weekend here from Bordeaux.

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