When to go to Sorrento and the Path of the Gods?
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Best time: May to June and September to October
At a glance
Why go to Sorrento and the Path of the Gods?
It is often said that Sorrento is not so much a destination as a balcony. The town clings to a cliff of yellow tuff plunging into the Bay of Naples, and from the Villa Comunale you take in, at a single glance, sleeping Vesuvius, the bay dotted with sailing boats and, on clear evenings, the silhouette of Naples on the far shore. That lookout position explains everything else: Sorrento does not try to compete with the spectacular villages of the Amalfi Coast, it serves as their base camp, better connected, livelier all year round and noticeably more affordable.
The old town fits into a handkerchief of lanes where lemon trees spill over walled gardens and the scent of limoncello drifts out of the shops. You wander without a plan, between the Romanesque cloister of San Francesco, the intarsio boutiques (the wood marquetry that made the town's name) and Piazza Tasso, the beating heart crossed by a constant ballet of scooters and passeggiate. Below, two marinas recall that Sorrento was first and foremost a port: Marina Grande, its fishing village, and Marina Piccola, where the ferries leave from.
But people often come this far for something the town does not itself possess: the Path of the Gods. This legendary hike runs a little further along the peninsula, above Positano, and Sorrento is its logical gateway. Between a morning walking high above the sea and an afternoon lazing on Capri, you soon understand why so many travellers choose to settle here rather than in the pricier, more crowded villages along the coast road.
Map of Sorrento and the Path of the Gods: what is where?
The map shows the 5 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.
- Sorrento (Piazza Tasso)
- Marina Grande, Sorrento
- Path of the Gods (Nocelle)
- Positano
- Capri
How much does a trip to Sorrento and the Path of the Gods cost?
Sorrento is noticeably more affordable than Positano or Amalfi, while remaining a sought-after destination where prices soar in July and August. Here are three profiles of daily spending per person, including accommodation but excluding transport to get there.
| Style | Per day | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Backpacker | €70-100 | A room in a modest B&B or in Sant'Agnello, meals in neighbourhood trattorias and pizza fritta, getting around by Circumvesuviana and SITA bus, a trip to Capri or the Path of the Gods. |
| Comfort | €130-200 | A well-located hotel with breakfast, dinners out including one at Marina Grande, ferries to Capri and the coast, a guided tour of Pompeii. |
| Premium | €250 and up | A hotel with a terrace and views over the bay, gourmet restaurants, private boat trips, taxi transfers and tailor-made experiences. |
The euro is the currency and cards are accepted almost everywhere, but keep some cash for small cafés, taxis and certain markets. ATMs are plentiful in the centre; avoid bureaux de change and independent cash machines with unfavourable rates.
Is Sorrento and the Path of the Gods safe?
Sorrento is a very safe destination, well used to tourism, where you can get around without worry by day or night; the usual vigilance against pickpockets is enough on crowded Circumvesuviana trains and on the ferries. The real issue is hiking: the Path of the Gods is not dangerous, but it is still a mountain route, with exposed sections, slippery stones and little shade. Go with proper walking shoes, plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen, set off early to avoid the heat, and give it a miss in rainy weather as the rock becomes slippery. The final stretch of several hundred steps down to Positano is hard on the knees, so plan for it.
What to see and do in Sorrento and the Path of the Gods
- Piazza Tasso and the tuff cliffs
- the Path of the Gods
- the views of Vesuvius
- limoncello and lemons
- the central location for day trips
Piazza Tasso and the centre of Sorrento
Piazza Tasso is the town's ground zero, the point from which everything radiates. You arrive here almost in spite of yourself, carried along by the flow of pedestrian lanes that converge on this square open to the drop of the cliff. Cafés, gelaterie and horse-drawn carriages share the space under the gaze of the statue of the poet Torquato Tasso, a local son. This is where the evening passeggiata plays out, that slow to-and-fro in which locals and visitors mingle. From the square run the shopping street of Corso Italia and the alleys of the old town, cooler and more authentic. Keep the square for an aperitivo and head off to explore the lanes in the fading light.
The tuff cliffs and Marina Grande
Sorrento is built on a natural wall of volcanic tuff that drops sheer into the sea. At the foot of this ochre cliff nestles Marina Grande, a former fishing village that has stayed away from the bustle. You go down by a staircase or an alley and suddenly switch to another rhythm: boats pulled up on the shore, nets drying, trattorias with their feet in the water. Pink and yellow façades are reflected in the tiny harbour. It is the perfect spot for a fish lunch facing the open sea, far from the crowded terraces of the centre. Afterwards, head back up to the Villa Comunale to take in the whole bay at sunset.
The Path of the Gods
The Sentiero degli Dei, or Path of the Gods, is the most famous hike on the Amalfi Coast, and rightly so. It is usually walked from west to east, starting from Bomerano, a hamlet of Agerola, to reach Nocelle, perched above Positano. The route runs along the mountainside, almost always on a ledge high above the blue, between vine terraces, goats and ruined shepherds' huts. Allow two to three hours of walking, with no major technical difficulty but some exposed sections that call for good shoes. The final descent to Positano is down a long staircase of several hundred steps. Set off early to avoid the heat and the crowds, and take plenty of water.
Lemons and limoncello
You cannot cross Sorrento without coming across its lemons. The sfusato, a local variety with thick, fragrant skin, sometimes reaches the size of a grapefruit and grows under wooden pergolas that shield the orchards from sun and wind. From this emblematic fruit the region makes its flagship product: limoncello, a bright yellow liqueur served ice-cold at the end of the meal. The shops in the centre line up rows of bottles, often alongside soaps, sweets and lemon-patterned ceramics. You can visit a small citrus garden in town to understand the traditional cultivation. A tasting remains the best way to tell an artisanal limoncello from an industrial one.
A base for day trips (Capri, Amalfi, Pompeii)
Sorrento's real asset is its position as a crossroads. From Marina Piccola, ferries speed to Capri in twenty minutes, as well as to Positano, Amalfi and Naples. The Circumvesuviana station, the end of the line, puts Pompeii and Herculaneum less than an hour away, with Naples at the far end of the tracks. SITA buses climb the coast road to Positano and Amalfi for those who prefer the road to the sea. You can sleep in the same place every night and change scenery every morning: ancient ruins one day, a legendary island the next, a mountain path the day after. That central position, combined with gentler prices, makes Sorrento a far more practical base than the villages clinging to the cliffs.
How many days, and which itinerary?
Two to three nights are enough to get a taste of Sorrento and fit in the Path of the Gods, but four to five nights let you explore Capri, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast at a relaxed pace without rushing.
🗺️ Day-by-day itinerary · 📓 Free printable Sorrento and the Path of the Gods guide (PDF) · 🌍 All of the Amalfi Coast
2 to 3 days
On day one, take Sorrento's pulse: a stroll through the old town, the cloister of San Francesco, Piazza Tasso, then down to Marina Grande for a fish lunch and a sunset from the Villa Comunale. Day two is for the Path of the Gods: bus or taxi to Bomerano early in the morning, two to three hours' walk to Nocelle, down to Positano and back to Sorrento by ferry. On day three, treat yourself to Capri by boat, between the Piazzetta, the Gardens of Augustus and, if the sea allows, the Blue Grotto.
4 to 5 days
Keep the previous plan and add a day at Pompeii via the Circumvesuviana, ideally combined with a trip up Vesuvius. A fifth day leaves you the choice between a leisurely ride along the Amalfi Coast by SITA bus (Positano, Amalfi, Ravello and its hanging gardens) and a relaxing morning at the beach, at Marina Grande or in the coves reached by boat. This more generous pace avoids stringing two demanding excursions together and leaves room for long meals and the siestas the climate demands.
Getting there and getting around
You can reach Sorrento without a car, which is almost a relief given how narrow and congested the coast road is. From Naples airport, a direct bus (Curreri) drops you in the centre in about seventy-five minutes. The Circumvesuviana train links Naples and Sorrento in an hour and a quarter, stopping at Pompeii and Herculaneum: slow and sometimes packed, it is unbeatable for simplicity and price. The station is right in the centre, a stone's throw from Piazza Tasso.
Once there, everything in the old town is done on foot. For the Amalfi Coast, SITA buses leave near the station, but the winding road makes the ferries far more pleasant and often faster in high season. From Marina Piccola you can sail to Capri, Positano, Amalfi or Naples. For the Path of the Gods, a bus links Sorrento with Agerola and Bomerano; otherwise, a shared taxi to the start saves time in the morning.
Where to stay in Sorrento and the Path of the Gods?
Sorrento offers a far wider range of accommodation than the coastal villages, from grand hotels with balconies over the bay to B&B rooms tucked into a lemon garden. The historic centre and the area around Piazza Tasso have the most practical addresses for exploring on foot and getting back easily in the evening. There are also many family-run B&Bs at reasonable prices, something that has become rare in Positano or Amalfi.
For the view, aim for the hotels perched on the cliff on the western side, with a terrace facing Vesuvius. Budget travellers turn to Sant'Agnello or Meta, neighbouring towns served by the same railway line, where prices drop without taking you much further away. In summer, booking several months ahead is a must, and always check the real distance to the station and the port, as some addresses billed as central involve long climbs.
Our places to stay, stop by stop, at three budgets →
What to eat in Sorrento and the Path of the Gods?
Sorrento's cooking is that of Campania, generous and sun-drenched. The signature dish remains gnocchi alla sorrentina, little potato dumplings baked with tomato, basil and melting mozzarella. You find mozzarella di bufala, San Marzano tomatoes and very fresh fish everywhere in the trattorias of Marina Grande. The meal almost always ends with a glass of ice-cold limoncello, offered on the house in many places.
To eat well without breaking the bank, move away from the most touristy terraces on Corso Italia and look for neighbourhood places, often in the side streets. Marina Grande has the best fish restaurants, with a view that justifies the bill. On the sweet side, the delizia al limone, a dome of sponge cake filled with lemon cream, sums up the town in a single mouthful. An artisan gelato and a slice of pizza fritta round out a light lunch before an excursion.
Entry requirements
Schengen area: an ID card or passport for EU citizens, 90 days visa-free for UK, US, Canadian and Australian passports.
Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.
Frequently asked questions about Sorrento and the Path of the Gods
Do you need a car to stay in Sorrento?
No, and arriving by car is actually best avoided. The coast road is narrow and congested and parking is expensive. The Circumvesuviana train, SITA buses and above all the ferries serve everything you could want to see, often faster and more pleasantly than the road.
Is the Path of the Gods difficult?
It is a moderate hike with no technical difficulty, but with exposed sections and little shade. Allow two to three hours. You need proper walking shoes and water, and should set off early. The long staircase down to Positano at the end is hard on the knees.
Is it better to stay in Sorrento or on the Amalfi Coast?
Sorrento is more affordable, better connected and lively all year round, which makes it an ideal base for day trips. Positano and Amalfi are more spectacular but more expensive and harder to reach. For a first visit, Sorrento offers the best compromise.
When is the best time to visit?
May, June, September and October offer the best balance of pleasant weather, warm sea and bearable crowds. July and August are packed and stifling, with prices at their peak. Winter is calm and mild, but some tourist services slow right down.
Can you visit Capri and Pompeii from Sorrento?
Yes, they are two classic day trips. Capri is reached by ferry in about twenty minutes from Marina Piccola. Pompeii is less than an hour away on the Circumvesuviana, and you can combine the visit with a trip up Vesuvius.
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