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Madrid

Madrid reveals itself in the evening: the Prado's paintings by day, then tapas from bar to bar in La Latina, and terraces that never empty. A capital that lives late and welcomes everyone.

🗺️The Madrid itinerary, day by dayWith a map, activities and hotels at three budgets. Free, to adapt to your dates.See the itinerary →

When to go to Madrid?

Best time: April to June and September to October

At a glance

Best timeApril to June and September to October
Budget per day€80-130 a day
CurrencyEuro (€)
LanguageSpanish

Why go to Madrid?

Long overshadowed by Barcelona in travellers' imaginations, Madrid has nonetheless established itself as one of Europe's most vibrant capitals. Set 650 metres above sea level in the heart of the Castilian Meseta, the city breathes a way of life all its own: terraces packed until midnight, dinners that begin when people elsewhere are heading to bed, and a straightforward hospitality that Madrileños readily call their greatest pride. Here, life happens outdoors, in the street, around an ice-cold caña.

The political capital since Philip II moved the court here in 1561, Madrid has inherited a considerable heritage without ever freezing into a museum city. Its famous Golden Triangle of Art brings together, within a few hundred metres, three of the world's greatest picture galleries: the Prado and its old masters, the Reina Sofía, home to Picasso's Guernica, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza with its journey through seven centuries of painting. Few cities let you pass so many masterpieces in so few steps.

But reducing Madrid to its museums would miss the point. The city is also savoured in the maze of La Latina on a Rastro Sunday, under the glass roofs of the San Miguel market, on rooftop terraces at sunset, or on a getaway to Toledo and Segovia, Castilian gems less than an hour away. You come for the art and stay for the atmosphere: that of a metropolis that never quite sleeps.

Map of Madrid: what is where?

The map shows the 7 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.

  1. Prado Museum
  2. Retiro Park
  3. Plaza Mayor
  4. Puerta del Sol
  5. Royal Palace
  6. San Miguel Market
  7. Temple of Debod

How much does a trip to Madrid cost?

Madrid remains one of the most affordable capitals in Western Europe, with an excellent quality of life on a moderate budget. Free entry to many museums in the early evening and the tapas culture let you take in culture and eat well without breaking the bank. Here are guidelines per person per day, excluding long-distance transport.

StylePer dayWhat it covers
Backpacker€50 to 75A night in a hostel or small hotel, tapas meals and menús del día, museums during free hours, getting around by metro.
Comfort€100 to 160Well-located three-star hotel, neighbourhood restaurants, museum entries, a train trip to Toledo.
Luxury€250 and upBoutique hotel or palace, gourmet tables, taxis, private guided tours and tailor-made experiences.

The currency is the euro, and cards are accepted almost everywhere, even for small amounts. Still, keep a little cash for markets, the El Rastro flea market and the most traditional taverns. Tipping is not compulsory: simply leave the change or a few coins when you have enjoyed the service.

Is Madrid safe?

Madrid ranks among the safest major European capitals, including at night, when it is common to be out late in lively streets. The main risk remains pickpocketing in tourist areas: Puerta del Sol, Gran Vía, the San Miguel market, the metro at rush hour and around very busy sights. So keep an eye on bags and phones, especially in the El Rastro crowds on Sundays. The summer heat, often above 35 degrees in July and August, calls for more vigilance than crime does: bring water, seek out shade and adopt a pace suited to the local siesta.

What to see and do in Madrid

  • the Prado Museum
  • Retiro Park
  • Plaza Mayor
  • the Royal Palace
  • the tapas of La Latina

The Prado Museum

The Prado Museum

Founded in 1819, the Prado ranks among the greatest picture galleries in the world and is, for many visitors, the number one reason to come to Madrid. Here you can contemplate Velázquez's Las Meninas, a summit of Western art, Goya's Black Paintings, torn from the walls of his house, and Hieronymus Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights. The collection also displays El Greco, Titian, Rubens and Murillo in rooms of dizzying richness. Allow at least three hours to skim the essentials, more to take your time. Entry is free in the early evening, a popular time when the queue grows outside the doors. Better to book your ticket online to avoid waiting at peak times.

Retiro Park

Retiro Park

A former royal garden opened to the public in the 19th century, the Retiro spreads its 118 hectares right next to the Prado and is Madrid's true green lung. At its centre, a large lake invites rowing-boat outings, while Madrileños come to run, read or picnic at weekends. The Crystal Palace, a glass and iron structure built in 1887, is reflected in a small pond lined with cypresses and hosts exhibitions from the Reina Sofía. You will also come across the rose garden, the Fallen Angel statue and venerable old trees. Since 2021, the park has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list together with the Paseo del Prado. It is the ideal place to catch your breath between two museums.

Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol

Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol

These two neighbouring squares form the beating heart of old Madrid. Plaza Mayor, a vast enclosed quadrangle completed in 1619 under Philip III, served in turn as market, bullring and venue for autos-da-fé; its arcades now shelter cafés and terraces under the gaze of the equestrian statue of the founding king. A few streets away, Puerta del Sol concentrates the bustle of Madrid around its famous clock, whose twelve chimes ring in the New Year across all of Spain. Here you will find Kilometre Zero of the country's roads, a discreet plaque set into the pavement, as well as the Bear and the Strawberry Tree, the city's emblem. It is the natural starting point for exploring the centre. The surrounding streets are full of old shops and century-old taverns.

The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace

Built in the 18th century on the ruins of the old alcázar destroyed by fire, the Palacio Real has more than 3,000 rooms and claims the title of largest palace in Western Europe. The official residence of the kings of Spain, it is now used only for state ceremonies, which leaves its salons open to visitors. You tour the throne room, the royal pharmacy, the armoury and priceless collections of clocks, tapestries and Stradivarius instruments. In front of the façade, the Plaza de Oriente and its statues of kings offer a fine perspective, extended by Almudena Cathedral directly opposite. The changing of the guard, on certain Wednesdays, revives a ceremonial from another age. The Sabatini Gardens, on a terraced slope, round off the visit nicely.

Tapas in La Latina and the San Miguel market

Tapas in La Latina and the San Miguel market

No discovery of Madrid would be complete without a tapas crawl in the La Latina district, the cradle of castizo, the city's down-to-earth spirit. Along the Cava Baja, taverns line up where you nibble standing, glass in hand, moving from one bar to the next in a well-honed ritual. On Sunday mornings, the El Rastro flea market fills the surrounding streets with its thousands of stalls, before the crowds retreat to the bars for an aperitif. Close by, the San Miguel market, a jewel of iron and glass from 1916, offers a festival of fresh produce, hams, seafood and croquetas beneath its glass roof. You eat on the hoof, elbow to elbow. It is the perfect place to taste Spain on a plate.

The Temple of Debod at sunset

The Temple of Debod at sunset

This is one of Madrid's most unexpected curiosities: an authentic Egyptian temple more than 2,000 years old, standing in the middle of a park west of the centre. Given by Egypt to Spain in 1968 in thanks for helping to save the Nubian monuments threatened by the Aswan Dam, it was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt here. Dedicated to the gods Amun and Isis, it stands on a base surrounded by pools that reflect its silhouette in the warmer months. The site owes its reputation above all to its sunsets: crowds gather every evening to watch the sky blaze behind the columns. The view opens onto the Casa de Campo and the sierra in the distance. Entry is free, a rare luxury for such a panorama.

A day trip to Toledo

A day trip to Toledo

Around thirty minutes by train from Atocha station, Toledo is the most popular day trip from Madrid. A former Visigothic capital and then seat of the kingdom before the court moved, the city nestles in a bend of the Tagus, girded by ramparts and bristling with bell towers. It is nicknamed the city of three cultures for the mixed heritage of the Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities who lived side by side there for centuries. Its Gothic cathedral is one of the most imposing in Spain, while the church of Santo Tomé holds The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, a masterpiece by El Greco, who lived and died here. Steep lanes, the massive alcázar and surviving synagogues make up an intact medieval setting. Segovia and its Roman aqueduct, or the monastery of El Escorial, offer equally beautiful alternatives.

How many days, and which itinerary?

Three to four days let you savour Madrid without rushing: two days for the historic centre and the Golden Triangle of Art, one to wander the La Latina, Malasaña and Chueca districts, and a last one for a trip to Toledo or Segovia. Museum lovers and night owls will gain from staying an extra day.

Two days (the essentials)

On day one, start with Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor before heading to the Royal Palace and its cathedral, then devote the afternoon to the Prado, followed by a walk in the neighbouring Retiro. Spend the evening in La Latina, going from tapas to tapas along the Cava Baja. On day two, visit the Reina Sofía for its Guernica, have lunch at the San Miguel market, then head to the Temple of Debod for sunset before ending the night in the bars of Malasaña.

Four days (in depth)

To the first two days, add a full day trip to Toledo on day three, by train from Atocha, to explore the cathedral, the Jewish quarter and El Greco's canvases. Day four is free for the Thyssen museum, a stroll along the Gran Vía, shopping in the Salamanca district and a break in the Sabatini Gardens. On a Sunday, ideally set aside the morning for the El Rastro flea market.

Getting there and getting around

Madrid can largely be explored on foot if you stay in the centre, as the main sights are concentrated between Puerta del Sol and the Prado. For longer journeys, the metro is the way to go: dense, clean and cheap, it serves the city all the way to the airport with more than 300 stations. A single ticket costs a few euros, but the ten-journey card, which can be shared, works out much better value. Buses complete the network, including at night with the búho lines.

From Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas airport, metro line 8 or the Cercanías commuter train reach the centre in around thirty minutes. For day trips, Atocha station puts Toledo 33 minutes away by high-speed train, and Chamartín puts Segovia under 30 minutes away, while coaches serve El Escorial. Taxis and ride-hailing cars remain affordable compared with other capitals, and handy late at night when the metro closes, around 1:30am.

Where to stay in Madrid?

The most central area for a first visit is around Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, from where you can do everything on foot, though it can be noisy. Those after atmosphere will prefer La Latina and its village feel, or the literary Barrio de las Letras, quieter and picturesque, close to the Prado. Malasaña and Chueca will appeal to those seeking nightlife, vintage shops and a young, trendy crowd.

For a quieter, chic stay, the Salamanca district lines up stately buildings, luxury boutiques and elegant hotels, fifteen minutes' walk from the Retiro. Madrid offers a wide range of accommodation, from friendly youth hostels to historic palace hotels on the Gran Vía. Prices climb during major trade fairs and big matches at the Santiago Bernabéu stadium; best to book early in high season.

What to eat in Madrid?

Madrid's cuisine combines traditions from all over Spain with Castilian specialities. The signature dish remains cocido madrileño, a hearty stew of chickpeas, meats and vegetables served in several courses, comforting in winter. You can also enjoy the bocadillo de calamares, a fried squid sandwich eaten on Plaza Mayor, callos a la madrileña (tripe in sauce) and cochinillo, roast suckling pig inherited from Segovia. Churros dipped in thick hot chocolate close the night or open the morning.

The true local religion, though, remains tapas, those small plates shared from bar to bar. Many places still give one free with each drink, a custom that lives on in the working-class districts. The hours surprise visitors: lunch is rarely before 14:00 and dinner is eaten around 21:00 or 22:00, when the city finally comes alive. For the ultimate experience, Casa Botín, considered the oldest restaurant in the world by Guinness, has been serving suckling pig since 1725.

Entry requirements

Schengen area: an ID card or passport for EU citizens, 90 days visa-free for UK, US, Canadian and Australian passports.

Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.

Frequently asked questions about Madrid

When is the best time to visit Madrid?

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) offer ideal conditions, with mild temperatures and superb light. Summer is very hot and some Madrileños desert the city in August, while winter, cold and dry, is still pleasant for museums and is sometimes dusted with snow.

How many days do you need to visit Madrid?

Three to four days is the ideal length: two for the historic centre and the Golden Triangle of Art, one to wander the neighbourhoods, and a last one for a trip to Toledo or Segovia. Art lovers and night owls will happily stay longer.

Should I book museums in advance?

It is strongly recommended for the Prado and the Reina Sofía, especially at weekends and during the free early-evening slots, when crowds are heavy. Booking online avoids long queues and guarantees entry at the times you want.

Madrid or Barcelona: which should I choose?

The two cities complement each other more than they compete: Barcelona charms with Gaudí, the sea and its Mediterranean setting, Madrid with its incomparable museums, its Castilian atmosphere and renowned nightlife. For a first trip to Spain focused on art and urban atmosphere, Madrid more than holds its own.

What time do people eat dinner in Madrid?

Much later than most visitors are used to: dinner is rarely before 21:00 and often around 22:00, when the terraces come alive. Lunch is around 14:00 or 15:00. Better to adopt this late rhythm to make the most of the tapas atmosphere.

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