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The Galápagos Islands

1,000 km off the coast of Ecuador, thirteen volcanic islands where the animals do not run away: marine iguanas piled up on the lava, sea lions asleep on the benches of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, blue-footed boobies a metre from the path. The national park covers 97% of the land and requires licensed guides and quotas.

🗺️The Galápagos Islands itinerary, day by dayWith a map, activities and hotels at three budgets. Free, to adapt to your dates.See the itinerary →

When to go to the Galápagos Islands?

Best time: January to March and June to August

At a glance

Best timeJanuary to March and June to August
Budget per day€150-280 a day
CurrencyUS dollar (USD)
LanguageSpanish

Why go to the Galápagos Islands?

The archipelago lies 1,000 km off the coast of Ecuador, straddling the equator where three ocean currents meet. That isolation has produced species found nowhere else: a marine iguana that grazes on seaweed while holding its breath, a cormorant that has lost the use of its wings, a tropical penguin, and a dozen distinct giant tortoises that vary from island to island. Darwin spent five weeks here in 1835 and noted the variations in the finches' beaks, raw material for a theory he would publish twenty-four years later.

The most disconcerting thing of all is the absence of fear. With no land predators for millions of years, the animals simply do not run away: sea lions sleep on the public benches of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, blue-footed boobies brood fifty centimetres from the path, and iguanas cross the sandy streets of Puerto Villamil. In return, the park enforces a two-metre distance, marked trails, quotas per site and a licensed guide in protected areas, and these rules shape the entire trip.

Two ways of visiting exist side by side. A cruise, lasting four to eight nights, reaches the remote islands of Genovesa, Fernandina and Española, sailing overnight to deliver an empty site at first light. A land-based stay on Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristóbal costs two to three times less, lets you plan your own days and opens up free sites that cruises never see. Many travellers mix the two, slotting a short cruise into the middle of a week on land.

Map of the Galápagos Islands: what is where?

The map shows the 6 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.

  1. Puerto Ayora
  2. Puerto Villamil
  3. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno
  4. Bartolomé
  5. Española
  6. Sierra Negra Volcano

How much does a trip to the Galápagos Islands cost?

The Galápagos are expensive before you have even spent a night: the flight from the mainland, a 20-dollar transit card and a park entrance fee of 200 dollars per foreign adult since August 2024. After that, a land-based stay cuts the bill by two or three times compared with a cruise, without giving up on the wildlife.

StylePer dayWhat it covers
Backpacker€110-160/dayHostal, almuerzos, free sites, a boat trip every other day, inter-island lanchas
Comfort€200-300/daySeafront hotel, a guided outing every day, two dives, dinners at the kiosks
Premium€500+/daySmall-boat cruise or highland lodge, naturalist guide, supervised dives, private transfers

The US dollar is Ecuador's official currency, so bring small notes: nobody gives change for a fifty. ATMs work in Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, far less reliably in Puerto Villamil. Cards are accepted in hotels and agencies, often with a 5 to 10% surcharge.

Is the Galápagos Islands safe?

The archipelago is one of the safest places in South America, and petty crime is marginal, even in the evening in the towns. The risks are natural and regulatory. First the sun, directly overhead on the equator, which burns in twenty minutes even under the drizzly cloud. Then the sea, with strong currents outside the sheltered bays and lancha crossings that are seriously bumpy from July to October. Finally, the park rules are strictly enforced: two metres' distance from the animals, no feeding, no touching, no leaving the trails and no flying a drone without permission, plus a biosecurity check on fruit and seeds at boarding. There is a hyperbaric chamber in Puerto Ayora, but the hospital is limited and a serious emergency means evacuation to Guayaquil.

What to see and do in the Galápagos Islands

  • Tortuga Bay
  • Charles Darwin Research Station
  • Sierra Negra Volcano
  • Los Túneles
  • Kicker Rock
  • Bartolomé Island
  • Punta Suárez
  • Concha de Perla

Santa Cruz and Puerto Ayora

Santa Cruz and Puerto Ayora
Santa Cruz and Puerto Ayora · photo Lloyd Douglas / Pexels

The most populated island in the archipelago, with around 15,000 inhabitants and the only real service hub: agencies, banks, a hospital, and a fish market where pelicans and sea lions wait for the scraps. The trail to Tortuga Bay sets off on foot from town. The highlands hide lava tunnels and the El Chato reserve, where giant tortoises roam free in the pastures. To the north, the Itabaca Channel links the island to Baltra airport by a five-minute ferry.

Isabela and Sierra Negra Volcano

Isabela and Sierra Negra Volcano
Isabela and Sierra Negra Volcano · photo Lloyd Douglas / Pexels

The largest island in the archipelago, 4,600 km², formed by six volcanoes, five of them still active. Puerto Villamil is all sandy streets, a lagoon with pink flamingos and a beach several kilometres long. The Sierra Negra caldera measures 9.3 km by 7.2 and is reached in an hour's climb from the pass, with a longer loop out to the fumaroles of Volcán Chico. The Wall of Tears, built by convicts between 1945 and 1959, is an easy bike ride from town.

San Cristóbal and Kicker Rock

San Cristóbal and Kicker Rock
San Cristóbal and Kicker Rock · photo Lloyd Douglas / Pexels

The administrative capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, shares its life with hundreds of sea lions that take over the beaches and the seafront benches. The free Interpretation Centre explains the geology and human history of the archipelago better than many guided tours. Kicker Rock (León Dormido), two blocks of tuff split by a narrow channel, is an hour away by boat and draws hammerhead sharks and eagle rays. La Lobería is a thirty-minute walk from town.

Bartolomé and Pinnacle Rock

Bartolomé and Pinnacle Rock
Bartolomé and Pinnacle Rock · photo Lloyd Douglas / Pexels

A bare volcanic islet off Santiago, with a wooden staircase of 372 steps climbing to 114 metres. From the top, two crescent bays almost touch, separated by Pinnacle Rock, a spire of tuff that has become the most reproduced image of the Galápagos. The landscape is purely mineral, red cones and black lava flows, without a single tree. Galápagos penguins swim at the foot of the rock, and green turtles nest on the north beach between January and March.

Española and the albatrosses

Española and the albatrosses
Española and the albatrosses · photo E bailey / CC0 (Wikimedia Commons)

The southernmost and oldest island, around 3.5 million years old, can only be visited on a cruise. Punta Suárez unrolls 3 km of trail between colonies of Nazca boobies, red-and-green marine iguanas unique to the island, and a blowhole that shoots water twenty metres above the cliff. It is the only nesting site in the world for the waved albatross, present from April to December. The coral-sand beach of Gardner Bay serves as a dormitory for dozens of sea lions.

Fernandina and Punta Espinosa

Fernandina and Punta Espinosa
Fernandina and Punta Espinosa · photo Diego F. Parra / Pexels

The youngest and most pristine of the large islands, free of introduced species, dominated by La Cumbre volcano, which erupts every few years. At Punta Espinosa, hundreds of marine iguanas, the largest in the archipelago, pile up on the lava, and the flightless cormorant lives here, the only cormorant in the world unable to fly. Galápagos snakes hunt between the boulders. Access is by cruise only, through the Bolívar Channel.

How many days, and which itinerary?

Eight days on the ground is the honest minimum: two islands, a few boat trips and time to recover from the crossings. Twelve to fifteen days lets you combine three inhabited islands with a short cruise to the northern or southern islands.

Two islands by land (8 days)

Arrive at Baltra, transfer to Puerto Ayora and spend three nights on Santa Cruz: Tortuga Bay, the Charles Darwin Research Station, lava tunnels and the giant tortoises of the highlands, plus a day trip to Bartolomé or Pinzón. Cross by lancha to Isabela, two hours on an often rough sea, for four nights in Puerto Villamil: Sierra Negra, Los Túneles, Concha de Perla and the Wall of Tears by bike. Return via Santa Cruz.

Cruise and land stay (11 days)

Three nights in Puerto Ayora to settle in and see the free sites of Santa Cruz, then five nights aboard a sixteen-passenger boat, on a western route to Isabela and Fernandina or a southern one to Española and Floreana. Disembark on San Cristóbal for two nights in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, for Kicker Rock and the Interpretation Centre. Book the cruise four to six months ahead.

The three inhabited islands (2 weeks)

Four nights on San Cristóbal, five on Isabela and four on Santa Cruz, with a spare day between each lancha crossing. This pace leaves time for the free sites, diving trips and the days when the sea is too rough to go out. Add an excursion to Floreana, two hours from Puerto Ayora, for Post Office Bay and its mail barrel, in use since the 18th century.

Getting there and getting around

Two airports receive flights from the mainland: Baltra, opposite Santa Cruz, and San Cristóbal. Allow two hours from Quito, an hour and a half from Guayaquil, and €350-500 return. The transit card is paid at the departure airport, the park entrance fee on arrival.

Getting from Baltra to Puerto Ayora means chaining an airport shuttle, the ferry across the Itabaca Channel and a bus or taxi, around an hour and a half in all. Carry small change in dollars: each leg is paid separately and nobody gives change for a large note.

Lanchas link Santa Cruz with Isabela and San Cristóbal in two to two and a half hours, with two daily departures at around 07:00 and 14:00, for €30-35 per trip. These are fast speedboats on a sea that is often choppy: take a seasickness tablet before boarding.

On the islands, white pick-up trucks serve as taxis for €1-3 a ride, and bikes can be hired everywhere. A small airline runs inter-island flights on nine-seat planes, faster and far more expensive than the lancha, with a very low baggage allowance.

Where to stay in the Galápagos Islands?

Hostales and small hotels in Puerto Ayora or Puerto Villamil: €40-90 a night for a simple room with air conditioning and breakfast. They are the backbone of a land-based stay, often run by families who have lived on the archipelago for two or three generations.

Boutique seafront hotels: €130-250 a night, with a terrace over Academy Bay on Santa Cruz or on the beach at Puerto Villamil. Book early for July, August and the end-of-year holidays, as hotel capacity is capped by regulation.

Lodges in the Santa Cruz highlands: €400-900 a night full board, in the humid zone where the giant tortoises live, twenty minutes from the port. The climate is cooler and mistier than on the coast, so pack a fleece even in February.

Cruises of four to eight nights in a double cabin: €250-700 per person per night depending on the boat's category, with naturalist guide, meals and outings included. Sixteen-passenger boats land their guests faster and wait less than hundred-berth ships.

What to eat in the Galápagos Islands?

In the evening, Calle Charles Binford in Puerto Ayora closes to traffic to make way for food kiosks: lobster in season, tuna skewers, rice and patacones on plastic tables, for €10-25 a dish depending on what you pick from the ice.

The midday almuerzo remains the cheapest meal on the archipelago: soup, a plate of rice and fish and a fruit juice for €5-8 in the canteens locals use, away from the seafront and its English-language menus.

Ecuadorian ceviche is served in its juices with red onion, coriander and toasted corn, often for breakfast on the coast. Encebollado, a tuna soup with cassava and pickled onion, plays the same pick-me-up role in the morning after a rough crossing.

Almost everything arrives from the mainland by cargo ship, which pushes prices 30 to 50% above Guayaquil's and empties the shelves by the end of the week. Lobster fishing is closed for part of the year, so a menu offering it in June tells you something about its supplier.

Entry requirements

Visa-free for 90 days in any 12 months for EU, UK, US, Canadian and Australian passports, which must be valid six months from arrival. For the Galápagos you also need a transit control card bought before check-in, health insurance, and cash for the national park fee on landing.

Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.

Frequently asked questions about the Galápagos Islands

How much is the national park entrance fee?

Since August 2024, the entrance fee has been 200 dollars per foreign adult and 100 dollars for a child under 12, payable in cash on arrival. On top of that comes a 20-dollar transit card bought at the departure airport in Quito or Guayaquil, which you must keep until you leave.

Cruise or land-based stay?

A cruise reaches the remote islands of Genovesa, Fernandina and Española, and delivers the sites at dawn with nobody else around. A land-based stay costs two to three times less, lets you plan your own days and gives access to free sites. Many combine the two, with a cruise of four or five nights in the middle of a week on land.

When is the best time to go?

From January to March, the sea is calm and the water 25°C, with changeable skies and short showers: the most pleasant season for swimming. From June to August, the water drops to 20°C and the sea gets up, but the cold currents bring hammerhead sharks and whales. The albatrosses of Española are present from April to December.

Is a guide compulsory?

Yes, at the park's protected sites, which means the vast majority of landings and all the uninhabited islands, with a licensed naturalist guide and groups capped at sixteen people. Tortuga Bay, the Charles Darwin Research Station, Concha de Perla, La Lobería and the town beaches remain open to independent visitors.

How much does a week there cost?

Allow €1,100-1,600 per person for eight days on land, excluding the flight from Europe: mainland flight, park fees, simple accommodation, two or three boat trips and the lancha crossings. A five-night cruise on a sixteen-passenger boat adds €1,500-3,500 depending on the category.

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