When to go to Istanbul?
→ The detailed month-by-month page, with real weather records
Best time: April to June and September to October
At a glance
Why go to Istanbul?
Istanbul is the only city in the world that straddles two continents, and you feel it every day: commuter ferries cross the Bosphorus in twenty minutes, overtake cargo ships and drop their passengers in Kadıköy or Üsküdar for the price of an ordinary ticket. Capital of three empires for sixteen centuries, it stacks Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire on a single hill, Hagia Sophia and Topkapı five minutes' walk from each other, with a 6th-century cistern beneath the pavements. No other city in Europe packs so much history into such a walkable area.
The historic peninsula is only the beginning. Across the Golden Horn, Galata and Karaköy line up cafés, galleries and the tables of new Turkish cuisine in the old harbour warehouses, İstiklal Avenue climbs towards Taksim between 19th-century arcades and rooftop bars, and Cihangir cultivates its artists' quarter vibe. On the Asian shore, Kadıköy and its market, Moda and its promenade, and the Tuesdays of Salı Pazarı make up the locals' city, without tour groups or touts. Balat, Fener and Üsküdar still keep their wooden streets and quiet mosque courtyards.
The rest is a matter of food and pace. The morning simit with tea by the water, the grilled fish sandwich under Galata Bridge, the meyhane of İstiklal where mezze and rakı flow until midnight, charcoal-grilled Adana kebabs and the pastries of Karaköy Güllüoğlu. Prices remain gentle for visitors from Europe, even if the major sites are now charged in euros, and dearly. In April, tulips cover the parks; in October, the light is low over the Bosphorus and the summer crowds have gone, two moments when the city gives itself completely.
Map of Istanbul: what is where?
The map shows the 6 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.
- Sultanahmet
- Grand Bazaar and Eminönü
- Galata and Karaköy
- İstiklal, Taksim and Cihangir
- Bosphorus and Dolmabahçe
- Kadıköy and Moda
How much does a trip to Istanbul cost?
Istanbul remains affordable for eating, sleeping and getting around, but the major sites have switched to euro-indexed prices for foreigners: Hagia Sophia €25, Topkapı €55, the Cistern €38, Galata €30. Choose your paid sites and make up for them with the mosques, ferries and neighbourhoods, all free.
| Style | Per day | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Backpacker | €40-60/day | Dorm in Sultanahmet, lokanta and fish sandwiches, Istanbulkart, mosques and neighbourhoods, one paid site every two days |
| Comfort | €100-160/day | Boutique hotel in Galata or Sultanahmet, all the major sites, a cruise, meyhane in the evening, a hammam |
| Premium | €300-500/day | Grand hotel on the Bosphorus, private guide, private boat on the strait, gourmet restaurants and a historic hammam |
The Turkish lira loses value every year, which explains the euro prices at sites and many hotels. Pay in lira withdrawn from ATMs; fees vary widely from bank to bank, and the exchange offices of the Grand Bazaar are fair. Cards are accepted everywhere except at markets. Tip 5 to 10% in restaurants.
Is Istanbul safe?
Istanbul is safe for visitors, including in the evening in the lively districts, and violence against tourists is rare. The classic problems are scams: shoe-shiners who drop their brush to strike up a conversation, carpet touts around Sultanahmet, taxis without a meter or taking detours, and the invitation from a stranger to a bar on İstiklal that ends with a bill of several hundred euros, the only serious con. Pickpockets work the T1 tram and the Grand Bazaar. Demonstrations are kept away from tourist areas and are easy to avoid. The city lies in an earthquake zone, and recent hotels meet the standards. Tap water is not drinkable, but bottles cost a few cents. Pharmacies are well stocked and private hospitals speak English.
What to see and do in Istanbul
- Hagia Sophia
- Blue Mosque
- Topkapı Palace
- Basilica Cistern
- Grand Bazaar
- Bosphorus cruise
- Galata Tower
- Balat and Fener
Sultanahmet
The historic peninsula, a World Heritage Site, home to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, the Basilica Cistern and the Byzantine Hippodrome with its obelisks. Everything is on foot from the T1 tram. The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, in the Palace of Ibrahim Pasha, and the Great Palace Mosaic Museum are the two visits people wrongly skip. The district is quiet in the evening and handy for staying, but the restaurants on Divan Yolu are expensive and mediocre: you are better off eating in Sirkeci or Kumkapı, or crossing the bridge to Karaköy.
Grand Bazaar and Eminönü
The merchant city, from the Grand Bazaar to the Egyptian Spice Bazaar down the slope of Mahmutpaşa, with its hans and fabric shops. Nearby, the Süleymaniye Mosque, Sinan's masterpiece completed in 1557, overlooks the Golden Horn from its terrace, free and far less visited than the Blue Mosque. Below, Eminönü is the hub of the ferries, the grilled fish boats and Galata Bridge with its anglers. The Rüstem Paşa Mosque, hidden upstairs above the stalls, has the finest Iznik tiles in the city. Allow a day for the whole area.
Galata and Karaköy
The north bank of the Golden Horn, once a Genoese colony, then the district of banks and embassies. Galata Tower, the Camondo Steps, the 1875 Tünel funicular that climbs up to İstiklal, and below, Karaköy, whose warehouses and workshops have become cafés, galleries, hotels and restaurants, with the Galataport cruise terminal and its modern art museum. The Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque and its restored 1580 hammam, the Karaköy Güllüoğlu pastry shop for baklava, and ferries to Kadıköy just steps away. The most convenient district to stay in, between the sights and the nightlife.
İstiklal, Taksim and Cihangir
İstiklal Avenue, 1.4 pedestrianised kilometres from Galata Tower to Taksim Square, with its vintage red tram, covered arcades such as Çiçek Pasajı, Catholic churches and 19th-century consulates. In the evening, the side streets of Nevizade and Asmalımescit fill with meyhane serving mezze and rakı, and rooftop bars open onto the Bosphorus. Cihangir, on the slope down to Kabataş, mixes cafés, antique shops and Art Nouveau buildings. Orhan Pamuk's Museum of Innocence, in Çukurcuma, is best visited with the novel in hand, or with the ticket printed in the book.
The Bosphorus and Dolmabahçe
The European shore of the strait, from Kabataş to Rumeli Hisarı. Dolmabahçe Palace, the sultans' residence after 1856, has 285 rooms, a 4.5-tonne chandelier given by Queen Victoria and the bed where Atatürk died in 1938, for around €40 admission, closed on Mondays. Ortaköy and its baroque mosque at the foot of the bridge, Bebek and its waterside cafés, and the 1452 fortress of Rumeli Hisarı with ramparts to climb. Bus 22 or 25E runs along the whole shore, and the Şehir Hatları cruise gives the view from the water. Opposite lie Kuzguncuk and its wooden houses, Üsküdar and the Maiden's Tower.
Kadıköy and Moda
The Asian shore, 20 minutes by ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy. Kadıköy is the favourite district of Istanbulites under forty: the fish and cheese market, the taverns of Kadife Street, the bars of Yeldeğirmeni and its murals, and the giant Tuesday market of Salı Pazarı. Moda extends it southwards with its seafront promenade, ice-cream parlours and sunsets over the historic peninsula. The nostalgic tram loops around the district. You eat for half the price, without touts, and head back on the last ferry at around 23:30 with the city lit up opposite.
How many days, and which itinerary?
Three full days cover Sultanahmet, the Grand Bazaar, Galata and a cruise. Five days let you add Kadıköy, Balat, Dolmabahçe and an evening on İstiklal without rushing. Beyond that, the Princes' Islands and the Asian shore of the Bosphorus extend the trip without repetition.
🗺️ Day-by-day itinerary · 📓 Free printable Istanbul guide (PDF) · 🌍 All of Turkey
The essentials (3 days)
Day 1: Hagia Sophia at 9am, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome, lunch in Sirkeci, Topkapı Palace in the afternoon with the Harem first, and the Basilica Cistern late in the day. Day 2: the Süleymaniye Mosque in the morning, the Grand Bazaar, down to the Spice Bazaar and Rüstem Paşa, a fish sandwich in Eminönü, then the ferry to Kadıköy and back after dark. Day 3: the long Şehir Hatları cruise at 10:35 to Anadolu Kavağı, back at 17:00, up Galata Tower after 20:00 and a mezze dinner in Nevizade. Get an Istanbulkart at the airport.
Istanbul in depth (5 days)
The first three days as above, moving Kadıköy to day 4 to spend the whole day there with Moda and the market, and dinner on Kadife Street. Day 5: a Golden Horn ferry to Balat and Fener, the Patriarchate, the Bulgarian church and the colourful steps, a walk to the Kariye Museum and its Byzantine mosaics, back along the Theodosian Walls at Edirnekapı, then Dolmabahçe in the afternoon and Ortaköy at sunset. A historic hammam at Kılıç Ali Paşa or Çemberlitaş one evening, with booking advised at weekends.
Istanbul and the islands (1 week)
Five days as above, then a day on the Princes' Islands: an hour-and-a-quarter ferry from Kabataş or Eminönü to Büyükada, where cars are banned, a tour of the island by bike or electric shuttle, the Monastery of St George at the top of the hill, a swim in summer and back at sunset. Keep the last day for whatever you missed: the Archaeological Museum near Topkapı, Üsküdar and Kuzguncuk on the Asian shore, or a morning's shopping at the Spice Bazaar before the airport, 45 minutes away on the M11 metro from Gayrettepe.
Getting there and getting around
Two airports: Istanbul Airport, 40 km north-west on the European side, linked to the centre by the M11 then M2 metro in an hour or by Havaist buses in 90 minutes for around €5, and Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side, with the M4 metro to Kadıköy. A taxi costs €35-45 from Istanbul Airport.
The Istanbulkart, a rechargeable card costing €3 from ticket machines, works on the tram, metro, buses, funiculars and ferries, for around €1 a journey with discounted transfers. The T1 tram links Sultanahmet, Eminönü, Karaköy and Kabataş and covers most of what you need.
The Şehir Hatları ferries are the city's great pleasure: Eminönü or Karaköy to Kadıköy and Üsküdar in 20 minutes, the Golden Horn line to Balat and Eyüp, Bosphorus cruises and the Princes' Islands. They leave every 15 to 30 minutes and accept the Istanbulkart.
Yellow taxis are cheap but sometimes refuse short trips or using the meter: the BiTaksi app or Uber, which calls official taxis, solves the problem. Avoid driving, as traffic is heavy from 08:00 to 20:00 and the Bosphorus bridges are gridlocked.
Where to stay in Istanbul?
Hostels and small hotels in Sultanahmet, around Akbıyık Street: €25-35 in a dorm, €50-80 for a double with breakfast and a roof terrace overlooking the Sea of Marmara. Handy for the sights and quiet in the evening.
Boutique hotels in the restored Ottoman houses of Sultanahmet and Sirkeci, or in the buildings of Galata and Karaköy: €100-180 for a double, often with a hammam and a view of Hagia Sophia or the Golden Horn. Galata puts you in the middle of everything.
Historic grand hotels: the 1892 Pera Palace built for Orient Express passengers, the Four Seasons in the former Sultanahmet prison, and the Çırağan in an Ottoman palace on the Bosphorus, from €250 to 600 a night, with the gentlest rates in winter.
Apartments in Cihangir, Kadıköy or Moda: €60-120 a night, the right choice for living the neighbourhood, doing your own market shopping and staying a week. Buildings often have no lift and the streets are steep, so check the floor.
Our places to stay, stop by stop, at three budgets →
What to eat in Istanbul?
The Turkish breakfast, kahvaltı, fills the table: cheeses, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs with sucuk, honey with kaymak cream, simit and endless tea, for €8-15 per person in the cafés of Cihangir, Karaköy or Moda, served until noon at weekends.
Mezze in a meyhane: aubergine purée, beans in olive oil, Albanian-style liver, marinated fish, washed down with rakı, in Nevizade, Kadıköy or Kumkapı, €25-40 per person. Lokanta, canteens serving stews from the counter, will feed you for €5-8.
On the street: balık ekmek, the grilled mackerel sandwich from the Eminönü boats for €3-4, kokoreç of grilled offal, stuffed mussels, the döner of Kızılkayalar in Taksim, and simit sold on every street corner with a tea at €0.50.
Sweet things: pistachio baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu, künefe with hot cheese, chicken-breast muhallebi pudding, lokum from the Spice Bazaar, and Turkish coffee brewed in hot sand, its grounds then read for your fortune. Efes beer and Turkish wine are heavily taxed, and rakı remains the drink of the evening.
Entry requirements
Visa-free for 90 days in any 180 with a passport, for EU, UK, US, Canadian and Australian citizens.
Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.
Frequently asked questions about Istanbul
How many days should you plan?
Three full days for the essentials of Sultanahmet, the Grand Bazaar, Galata and the Bosphorus, five to add the Asian shore, Balat and Dolmabahçe at a reasonable pace. The sites are close together, but queues and summer heat slow everything down. A week allows for the Princes' Islands and a day with no plan.
When is the best time to go?
April to June and September to October: between 18 and 26°C, long days and tulips in the parks in April. July and August are hot, humid and crowded at the sites; winter is rainy with occasional snow, but hotels are half the price and the queues vanish. Avoid religious holidays for the Grand Bazaar, which closes.
How do you get from the airport to the centre?
From Istanbul Airport, the M11 metro reaches Gayrettepe in 35 minutes, then the M2 takes you to Taksim or Vezneciler in 15 minutes, for around €2 with the Istanbulkart. Havaist buses go directly to Sultanahmet or Taksim in 90 minutes for €5. From Sabiha Gökçen, the M4 metro reaches Kadıköy in 50 minutes, then take the ferry.
Can you go inside the mosques?
Yes, for free, outside the five daily prayers and Friday midday prayers. Shoulders and knees covered for everyone, hair covered for women, with scarves lent at the entrance of the big mosques, and shoes removed and carried in a bag. Hagia Sophia is the exception: the visitor route upstairs costs €25, and the ground floor is reserved for prayer.
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