The Ring of Kerry

The Kerry Cliffs and the view of the Skellig Islands

A few minutes from the fishing village of Portmagee, the Kerry Cliffs plunge some 300 metres into the Atlantic and offer, by common consent, the best viewpoint on land over the Skellig Islands. A short, well-made path leads from the car park to a platform taking in Skellig Michael and Little Skellig, often circled by gannets. Access is by a small road from Portmagee, on the Skellig Ring route, and there is an entry fee (a few euros). Come preferably in late afternoon, when the low light gilds the rock. In strong wind the cliff is spectacular, but stay well behind the barriers, as the ground is grassy and slippery.

Killarney National Park and its lakes

The first national park created in Ireland, Killarney covers more than 100 km² of ancient woodland, mountains and three large lakes: vast Lough Leane, Muckross Lake and the small Upper Lake. The N71 road heading for Kenmare crosses this scenery and climbs to Ladies View, a viewpoint named after a visit by Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting. Explore the park on foot, by bike, by rowing boat or in the famous jaunting cars, horse-drawn carriages driven by talkative jarveys. The heart of the estate, around Muckross, can be visited free of charge and without a car. Spring and early autumn, less crowded, bring the finest colours to the oak woods and rhododendrons.

Torc Waterfall

Seven kilometres from Killarney, along the N71, Torc Waterfall tumbles some twenty metres down a rock face in the middle of a mossy forest. From the roadside car park, a short five-minute walk along a shady path is enough to reach it, making it accessible to all, families included. The more energetic climb the steps around it to a viewpoint overlooking Lough Leane. The falls are most impressive after rain, when the flow swells, which in Kerry means a good part of the year. Avoid the middle of the day in summer to dodge the groups, and favour the morning, when the light filters through the branches.

Muckross House

On the shore of Lough Leane, Muckross House is a neo-Tudor Victorian mansion completed in 1843, famous for hosting Queen Victoria in 1861. Visit its period-furnished drawing rooms, the family bedrooms and the servants' quarters in the basement, which tell the story of life on a great Irish estate in the 19th century. Around the house, the manicured gardens mix flower beds, rockeries and banks of rhododendrons that burst into colour in late spring. The Muckross Traditional Farms recreate three 1930s farms with animals and craftspeople. Access to the park and gardens is free; only the house tour is paid. You can easily spend half a day here, ideally combined with the nearby abbey.

Muckross Abbey and its yew tree

A few hundred metres from Muckross House stands Muckross Abbey, a Franciscan ruin founded in the mid-15th century and remarkably well preserved. You can wander freely through the church, the old graves and above all the cloister, whose centre is taken up by a huge yew tree thought to be as old as the friary itself. This interplay of grey stone and dark foliage, often bathed in soft light, gives off a striking, almost unreal atmosphere. It is reached on foot or by bike from the Muckross car park, and entry is free. The visit takes about thirty minutes, ideally early in the morning or late in the day, when the place regains its calm.

Waterville and the Charlie Chaplin statue

On the west coast of the peninsula, between the ocean and Lough Currane, the seaside village of Waterville lines up its colourful houses along a long, spray-lashed promenade. Charlie Chaplin spent many family holidays here from the 1960s, won over by the tranquillity, and a bronze statue of the Little Tramp now watches over the seafront. The village is also renowned for salmon fishing and for its links golf course, among the finest in Ireland. It is a good spot for a lunch break facing the bay, halfway round the loop. Every summer, a small Chaplin festival celebrates the film-maker's memory.

The beaches of Derrynane

Near Caherdaniel, in the south-west of the peninsula, Derrynane hides one of the finest beaches in Kerry: a stretch of white sand lapped by turquoise water, fringed with dunes and rocks, with views of the islets offshore. At low tide, you can walk across to little Abbey Island and the ruins of its old priory. The site is also home to Derrynane House, the family home of Daniel O'Connell, a leading figure of Irish Catholic emancipation, now a museum surrounded by parkland and coastal paths. Access is by a small road off the main Ring route. Come in fine weather for a swim or a long walk, bearing in mind that the Atlantic stays cool even in summer.

Inch Beach

Technically on the neighbouring Dingle Peninsula but easily linked to the Ring, Inch Beach is a spectacular spit of sand some five kilometres long jutting out into Dingle Bay. This vast flat strand, where you can walk for ages, has served as a film set several times, including David Lean's Ryan's Daughter in 1970. It is popular with beginner surfers for its regular waves, and with families for its shallow water at low tide. A café-restaurant above the beach lets you warm up with a view over the expanse of sand. It is reached directly from the coast road, and the best time is late in the day, when the setting sun sets the bay aglow.

Ballycarbery Castle

Three kilometres from Cahersiveen, Ballycarbery Castle raises its gutted walls in the middle of the fields, entirely cloaked in green ivy that seems to swallow the stone. This 16th-century fortress, once linked to the McCarthy Mor clan, cannot be visited inside for safety reasons, but its romantic silhouette facing the sea makes it one of the most photographed subjects on the Ring. Close by are two Iron Age ring forts, Cahergall and Leacanabuaile, with perfectly preserved dry-stone walls. It is reached by a small road from Cahersiveen. Come in late afternoon, when the golden light shows off the ivy; the ground is often muddy, so good shoes are advisable.

Valentia Island and Bray Head

Linked to the mainland by a bridge from Portmagee and by a ferry from Reenard Point in season, Valentia Island is a peaceful escape at the western tip of the peninsula. Climb to the Bray Head signal tower, an old Napoleonic-era building, at the end of a walk of about an hour rewarded by a plunging view over the Skelligs. The island also preserves famous tetrapod footprints, almost 385 million years old, among the oldest known traces of land animals in the world. Don't miss the Slate Quarry grotto, a former quarry turned shrine, and the small museum of the transatlantic cable that left from here in 1866. Explore the island in half a day, ideally in clear weather.

Skellig Michael

Off the peninsula, the rocky island of Skellig Michael rises from the Atlantic like a stone pyramid, crowned by an early medieval monastery listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You climb more than 600 steps cut into the rock to reach the beehive-shaped dry-stone cells where monks lived from the 6th century. The island became world-famous after serving as a set for two Star Wars films. Boat trips run only from April to September, departing from Portmagee, Ballinskelligs or Caherdaniel, and booking ahead is essential as places are so limited. The fickle weather frequently cancels sailings: allow a margin of several days and be in good physical shape, as the climb is steep and has no handrails.

The Gap of Dunloe

Between Killarney and the Black Valley, the Gap of Dunloe is a spectacular glacial pass, a narrow valley carved by ice where a hairpin road snakes between rock walls, small lakes and streams. It is traditionally travelled on foot, by bike or by jaunting car from Kate Kearney's Cottage, an old coaching inn turned pub. Driving through is strongly discouraged, as the road is very narrow and shared with horses and walkers. A classic option combines crossing the pass with a boat trip back through the three lakes of Killarney, an unforgettable day of adventure to book in advance. Come early in the morning to enjoy the silence, and bring a windproof jacket, as the pass catches the squalls.