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Samarkand

Capital of Tamerlane's empire in the late 14th century, Samarkand lines up three madrasas clad in turquoise faience on the Registan, each more than 30 metres high. Around them, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, Tamerlane's tomb and a 15th-century observatory all lie within a 3 km radius.

🗺️The Samarkand itinerary, day by dayWith a map, activities and hotels at three budgets. Free, to adapt to your dates.See the itinerary →

When to go to Samarkand?

Best time: April to May and September to October

At a glance

Best timeApril to May and September to October
Budget per day€45-85 a day
CurrencyUzbek som (UZS)
LanguageUzbek

Why go to Samarkand?

Samarkand was the capital of an empire that stretched from the Black Sea to India. Between 1370 and 1405, Tamerlane brought back the finest craftsmen from the cities he took, from Shiraz to Delhi, and set them to building. That concentration of skill over thirty-five years explains the technical mastery of the double-shelled domes, the mosaics cut piece by piece and the 35-metre portals. No other city in Central Asia received so much in so little time, which gives the whole a rare unity of style.

The city was also a leading centre of science. Ulugh Beg, the conqueror's grandson, taught in person at his madrasa on the Registan and built an observatory whose 40-metre sextant measured the length of the year with an error of less than a minute. His catalogue of 1018 stars remained the reference in Europe until Tycho Brahe. The site was razed after his assassination in 1449 and only rediscovered in 1908, which makes a visit to the trench all the more striking.

Everything happens within a very small area. The Registan, the Gur-e-Amir, Bibi-Khanym and Shah-i-Zinda fit within three kilometres, linked by a tree-lined pedestrian promenade. Around them, the Soviet city and its broad avenues hold little interest, but Siab Bazaar, the Tajik quarter with its courtyard houses and the hills of Afrasiab provide material for a second day. The high-speed train puts Samarkand two hours from Tashkent and an hour and a half from Bukhara.

Map of Samarkand: what is where?

The map shows the 6 places covered in this guide, to picture the distances and plan your route.

  1. Registan Square
  2. Shah-i-Zinda
  3. Gur-e-Amir
  4. Bibi-Khanym Mosque
  5. Ulugh Beg Observatory
  6. Siab Bazaar

How much does a trip to Samarkand cost?

Uzbekistan remains very affordable: monument entry fees top out at around €4, a full meal costs under €8 and the high-speed train between cities comes to about fifteen euros. Accommodation is the only item that can climb.

StylePer dayWhat it covers
Backpacker€35-55/dayFamily guesthouse, plov canteens, walking and shared taxis, two monuments a day
Comfort€80-130/dayBoutique hotel in the old quarter, restaurants with terraces, a guide for half a day, Yandex taxis
Premium€250+/dayInternational hotel, car with driver, private guide, excursion to Shahrisabz and private dinners

Som can be withdrawn from bank ATMs in the centre, which sometimes dispense dollars rather than local currency. Bring euros or dollars in crisp new notes for exchange, as creased ones are refused. Cards work in hotels and large restaurants and almost nowhere else: keep cash for the bazaar and taxis.

Is Samarkand safe?

Samarkand is a safe city, including for women travelling alone and including in the evening in the historic centre. Pickpocketing is rare and physical assault almost unheard of, with a strong police presence around the monuments. The things to watch are elsewhere. First, the heat: from June to August, afternoons regularly exceed 38°C with no shade on the plazas, so visits need to be fitted in before 11am and after 5pm. Then the traffic, with pedestrian crossings widely ignored and taxis driving fast on the Soviet avenues. Health-wise, tap water isn't drinkable, street ice creams are best avoided and mild stomach upsets affect many visitors in the first week. Finally, change money at banks or hotels: street exchange exists but remains illegal and exposes you to out-of-date notes.

What to see and do in Samarkand

  • Registan Square
  • Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis
  • Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
  • Bibi-Khanym Mosque
  • Ulugh Beg Observatory
  • Siab Bazaar
  • Afrasiab archaeological site
  • Khoja Daniyar Mausoleum

Registan Square

Registan Square
Registan Square · photo AXP Photography / Pexels

Three monumental madrasas frame a plaza on three sides, something found nowhere else. Ulugh Beg's, the oldest, dates from 1420 and served as a university of astronomy. The Sher-Dor opposite dared, around 1636, to depict two big cats and a sun with a human face, a rare figurative image in the Islamic world. The Tilla-Kari, between the two, hides a prayer hall whose flat ceiling, covered in gold leaf, imitates a dome. The courtyards now house craft shops.

Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis

Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis
Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis · photo Roma Dik / Pexels

A sloping lane lined with some forty blue mausoleums, from the 11th to the 19th century, climbing towards the shrine of Qusam ibn Abbas. It's the best-preserved ensemble in the city: many tiles are original, so you can compare techniques from one century to the next, from carved terracotta to cut faience mosaic. The site remains an active place of pilgrimage, with families coming to read and pray on Fridays.

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum · photo Gabriele Niek / Pexels

Tamerlane's tomb, built in 1404, with its 32-metre ribbed dome and an interior covered in onyx and gold. The green jade slab of the cenotaph bears a threatening inscription that the Soviets defied when they opened the tomb on 20 June 1941: the anthropologist Gerasimov confirmed the conqueror's limp and reconstructed his face. The German invasion began two days later, which fed the legend of the curse.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Bibi-Khanym Mosque · photo AXP Photography / Pexels

Tamerlane's Friday mosque, raised between 1399 and 1404 with elephants and craftsmen brought back from India. Its dimensions were extraordinary for the time: a 35-metre portal, a 40-metre main dome, four hundred marble columns. Built too fast and too big, it cracked during the ruler's lifetime and collapsed in stages. Restoration has rebuilt the three domes and left sections of bare brick, which makes the scale very easy to read.

Ulugh Beg Observatory

Ulugh Beg Observatory
Ulugh Beg Observatory · photo Bgag / CC0 (Wikimedia Commons)

On Kuhak hill, 4 km from the centre, all that remains of the 1424 building is the trench of the great sextant, cut into the rock and lined with graduated marble. The instrument had a radius of 40 metres, making it the most precise of its day. Ulugh Beg calculated the length of the sidereal year here with an error of less than a minute. The museum next door displays reconstructed instruments and the star catalogue, translated at Oxford in the 17th century.

Siab Bazaar and the Tajik quarter

Siab Bazaar and the Tajik quarter
Siab Bazaar and the Tajik quarter · photo Neslihan Ercan / Pexels

Backing onto Bibi-Khanym, Siab Bazaar is still a market for locals before it's a backdrop: stamped round loaves, dried apricots, qurut, spices sold by the spoonful. Behind it, the old Tajik quarter lines up low courtyard houses, weaving workshops and a few synagogues, traces of a Bukharan Jewish community settled here for centuries. The streets have no pavements and traffic is limited to a few cars.

How many days, and which itinerary?

Two full days are enough for the great monuments and the bazaar. A third allows for Afrasiab, the Tajik quarter and a trip to Shahrisabz, Tamerlane's birthplace, two hours away by road over the Takhtakaracha Pass.

The essentials (2 days)

Day 1: the Registan at opening time, then Bibi-Khanym and Siab Bazaar before 11am, a plov lunch in a market canteen, Shah-i-Zinda in the early afternoon, back to the Registan after 6pm for the low light. Day 2: Gur-e-Amir in the morning, the Ulugh Beg Observatory and Afrasiab museum straight after by taxi, the Khoja Daniyar Mausoleum on foot from the museum, late afternoon in the Tajik quarter and its courtyard houses.

Samarkand and around (4 days)

The two-day base, plus a day in Shahrisabz over the Takhtakaracha Pass, at 1,700 metres, for the ruins of Tamerlane's Ak-Saray palace and its 40-metre portals. A fourth day for the Konigil mulberry paper workshop, revived using 8th-century methods, the Al-Bukhari Mausoleum 25 km north, and a dinner cooked in a guesthouse in the old Tajik quarter.

Uzbekistan's Silk Road (10 days)

Two days in Tashkent for the metro and the Museum of Applied Arts, three days in Samarkand, three days in Bukhara for the Poi-Kalyan and the merchants' quarter, two days in Khiva inside the walls of Itchan Kala. The three cities are linked by the Afrosiyob high-speed train, to be booked ten days ahead in high season. The Bukhara-Khiva leg is done by night train or by road across the Kyzylkum Desert.

Getting there and getting around

The Afrosiyob high-speed train links Tashkent to Samarkand in 2h05 and Samarkand to Bukhara in 1h30, for €10-20 depending on class. Tickets are sold online or at the station, ten days ahead in April and October. The station is 6 km from the historic centre.

The international airport, opened in 2022, is 6 km north-east. It receives flights from Tashkent, Istanbul, Dubai and a few European cities in season. From further afield, the most reliable option remains flying into Tashkent and taking the train.

In town, taxis are flagged down at the roadside and cost 15,000 to 30,000 som a ride, or €1-2.50. Yandex Go works well and saves haggling. The central monuments are linked on foot by the tree-lined pedestrian promenade running alongside Registan Avenue.

For Shahrisabz, shared taxis leave from the southern bus station and take two hours over the Takhtakaracha Pass, at 1,700 metres. Allow €10-15 a seat return with waiting time, or €40 for a whole car for the day.

Where to stay in Samarkand?

Guesthouses in the old Tajik quarter: €25-45 for a double with breakfast, often a family-run courtyard house ten minutes' walk from the Registan. This is the most common and most rewarding option in Samarkand.

Mid-range hotels around Registan Avenue: €55-90, recent buildings, air conditioning and lifts. Handy in July when the heat tops 38°C, but less charming than the guesthouses in the old town.

Boutique hotels in restored mansions near Bibi-Khanym: €70-120, patios, terraces overlooking the domes and service in French or English. Book two months ahead for May and September.

The Silk Road Samarkand complex, opened in 2022 beside an artificial lake 4 km from the centre, brings together several international hotels at €120-200. Brand-new comfort but a lifeless district: plan on a taxi every time you go out.

What to eat in Samarkand?

Samarkand plov differs from Tashkent's: the rice, carrot and meat stay in separate layers and aren't mixed when served. It's eaten at lunchtime, never in the evening, in the plov canteens around the bazaar, for €2-4 a portion.

Samarkand non, a round flatbread stamped by hand and baked in a tandoor, keeps for several weeks and travels home as a souvenir. Batches come out around 8am and 4pm at Siab Bazaar, €0.50-1 each depending on size.

The chaikhanas serve lamb shashlik over a wood fire, samsas baked against the wall of the oven and lagman, hand-pulled noodles in a mutton and vegetable broth. Allow €4-8 for a full meal with green tea.

In season, fruit is half the appeal: June apricots, Mirzachul melons in August, grapes and pomegranates in September. The bazaar sells them by the kilo for a few thousand som. Sweet Uzbek wine can be found at the Khovrenko winery, open for tastings.

Entry requirements

Visa-free for up to 30 days for EU, UK, US, Canadian and Australian passports (US citizens since 1 January 2026). You must be registered within three days of arrival: hotels do it for you, and private stays are registered online.

Rules change: check your own government's travel advice before you go.

Frequently asked questions about Samarkand

How many days do you need in Samarkand?

Two full days cover the Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, the Gur-e-Amir, Bibi-Khanym and the bazaar without rushing. A third day opens up Afrasiab, the Tajik quarter and the observatory, or a trip to Shahrisabz. Beyond that, better to move on to Bukhara, 1h30 away by high-speed train.

When is the best time to go?

April and May, then September and October: days between 22 and 30°C, clear skies and fruit on the stalls. July and August often exceed 38°C, which makes the shadeless plazas hard going at midday. From December to February it freezes at night, but the monuments are empty and prices at their lowest of the year.

How do you get from Tashkent to Samarkand?

On the Afrosiyob high-speed train, two hours five minutes and €10-20 depending on class, with several departures a day. Book ten days ahead in April, May, September and October, as seats go fast. The regular train takes three hours for half the price, the road four hours by shared taxi.

How much do monument entry fees cost?

Between 20,000 and 50,000 som, or €1.50-4 per site. The Registan is the most expensive; Siab Bazaar and the Afrasiab hills are free. There's no combined pass. Carry cash, as most ticket offices don't take foreign bank cards.

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